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TREATISE ON BAKING 



Copyright 1905 

by 

Julius Emil Wihlfahrt 



Copyright 1913 

by 

JULIUS Emil Wihlfahrt 



Copyright 1914 

by 

Julius Emil Wihlfahrt 



SEP :l 1314 



A TREATISE 



ON 



FLOUR, YEAST, 
FERMENTATION 



AND 



BAKING 



TOGETHER WITH 



RECI PES FOR BREAD and CAKES 

THIRD EDITION REVISED 
I 9 14 



^y^u^vT, % 



S' 



ip'i^ 



"PLEASE PASS THE BREAD" 

Your problem is to have this sentence repeated 
as often as possible in the homes of your cus- 
tomers. It's obvious that the more bread they 
eat, the more bread you'll sell. 

The question is: How can you make your 
customers increase the amount of bread they 
eat? The answer is: By making better bread. 

As every baker knows, good bread is chiefly 
a matter of materials and methods. 

Fleischmann's Yeast 

and straight dough methods are daily increasing 
the consumption of bread. Besides, thousands 
who formerly baked their own bread have been 
won over to the baker because of the better 
quality of his bread. 

The recipes in this book were prepared with 
the idea of bettering the baker's business. Use 
any of the bread recipes given, and "please pass 
the bread" will be more frequently heard around 
your customer's tables. 

THE FliEilSCHMANN CO. 

y 

©CI,A;j79G79 
'Ho/ 



PREFACE. 



In writing this book it has been my aim to present, in a 
form as condensed as possible, a work valuable to all persons 
interested in the baking trade. 

One of my chief purposes is in the interest of practical 
baking, which requires exact knowledge of flours and fer- 
mentations, together with all such recipes known to me in 
which compressed yeast should be used. 

All trades and professions have their sources of informa- 
tion. For the baker his is the recipe book. 

Ideas based upon experience gained from trade books 
are more valuable in this competitive age than ever before, 
and those who do not believe in trade books should realize 
what they have lost through failure to compare their own 
ideas with those of others. 

Of course, judgment must be exercised in the use of 
recipes, and they must not be condemned because the pos- 
sessor of them can not at once succeed with every formula 
presented; as much depends upon the judgment of the 
workman. 

Having had more than twelve years of actual practice 
and an equal number of years of study pertaining to the 
contents of this book, I have found that some of the sup- 
posed best authorities make the most discriminating state- 
ments against the food value, and others against the proper 
manufacture of bread, etc., and in this I would advise the 
theorist and the expert alike that I do not think it possible 
for them to be so proficient that they can not add to their 
existing store of knowledge by consulting the ideas of others. 
The theorist as well as the practical man needs the ideas of 
others, in order to evolve new ideas for himself. 



4 



Of all the food-cranks, none is more persistent than the 
bread-crank. Sometimes he condemns wheat bread as 
absolutely without nourishment; again he claims that rye 
and graham breads are too soggy, and that only white bread 
is wholesome. 

Between the two extremes, a practical man must make 
his way carefully to arrive at the right conclusion. 

The truth of the matter is that bread is now a perfect 
product, attractive and nourishing. Justly indeed it is 
termed the "Staff of Life." 

Everybody eats of it daily with zest and enjoyment. 
Bread is an outpost of civilization. Where bread is on the 
daily bill of fare, health, comfort and all that modernization 
implies is found. 

The notable changes in the manufacture of bread made 
in the past century have been made possible by men of en- 
terprise, who led the way to success for others. Enthusiasm 
is necessary and is the key for many a man to unlock 
barred doors. 

There is plenty of room for the progressive baker who 
recognizes that to succeed he must produce a good article, 
display it in a clean and bright-looking store, be attentive 
to his customers, and give value for money received. 

With all the disadvantages of a small business, the small 
baker is not yet exterminated, and, after all, today, the 
same as in the past, the most successful baker is he who 
makes the best goods. 

Some bakers believe that by substituting cheaper ma- 
terials at a lower price, their success is assured; but the 
wise have learned that the best is always the cheapest in the 
end, and those following this plan will be assured of success. 



5 

INDEX. 

Page. 

Preface 3 

General Remarks 11 

The Bakery of Today 12 

Measures (Important) 65 

PART I. 
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS 

Page. 

Bread, Expansion of Loaf 58 

Bread, Flavor in 52 

Bread, Home-made, Compared with Bakers' 54 

Bread, Large Holes in 56 

Bread, Milk 59 

Bread, Rope in 46 

Bread, Vienna 53 

Cakes, Yeast Raised 60 

Diseases of Bread 46 

Doughing 39 

Dough, Temperature of 33 

Doughs at Too High or Too Low a Temperature Pro- 
duce Sour Bread 25 

Fermentation, Points About 29 

Flour, Absorption of 20 

Flour, Color of 21 

Flour, for Gluten Bread 64 



6 

Flour, Healthfulness of White Wheat, Entire Wheat 

and Graham 26 

Flour, Moisture in 22 

Flour, Rye 28 

Flour, Strength of 21 

Flour, Various Acids in White Wheat 25 

Flour, White Wheat 13 

Gluten, in White Wheat Flour 18 

Gluten, the Estimation and Separation of 19 

Handling Sponges and Sponge Doughs 36 

Holes in Bread 56 

Machinery, for Bakers' Use, and its Advantages 55 

Malt Extract, as it Affects the Manufacture of Bread . 23 

Pekarizing Flour for Color 21 

Rope in Bread 46 

Salt, and its Action on Fermentation 45 

Sponge Method 36, 37, 38, 39, 40 

Sponge, Ripeness of Sponge Dough and Straight Dough 59 
Storage of Flour, Temperature Best Suited and In- 
fluence on Flavor 18 

Straight-Dough Method, Advantages of 40, 41 

To Ascertain Amount of Gluten in Flour 19 

Temperature for Doughs 34 

Thermometers, Different Scales of 35 

Water used for Doughing, with Reference to Yield. . 44 
Water, Condition of, Whether Hard or Soft, as it 

Affects Fermentation 41 

Yeast 30 

Yield in General 42 

Yield, Increase by use of Machinery 43 



PART II. 

Recipes. 

Page. 

Babas 100 

Brioches 101 

Bread, Boston Brown 74 

Bread, Butter 103 

Bread, Concord 78 

Bread, Cottage 68 

Bread, Cream 73 

Bread, Entire Wheat 73 

Bread, French 70 

Bread, German Schnitz (Hutzelbrod) 85 

Bread, Gluten 64 

Bread, Graham 74 

Bread, Home-made 68 

Bread, Milk 69 

Bread, Oven Sole 67 

Bread, Plain, Pan Loaves 67 

Bread, Pulled 79 

Bread, Pullman 71 

Bread, Quaker 68 

Bread, Restaurant 71 

Bread, Rye 75, 76, 77 

Bread, Rye "Flour Blend" 75 



Page. 

Bread, Sandwich 71 

Bread, Ulmer 104 

Bread, Vienna 72 

Buns, Cinnamon ^-r:^. 93 

Buns, Currant 90 

Buns, Hot Cross 90 

Buns, Plain 90 

Cake, Apple 95 

Cake, Cheese 97 

Cake, Cinnamon 92 

Cake, Fruit 96 

Cake, Onion 97 

Cake, Saxon 94, 106 

Cake, Streuhsel 92 

Crescents, Vanilla 103 

Doughs, Sweet 87 

Dough, Sweet No. 1 89 

Dough, Sweet No. 2 89 

Doughnuts 93 

General Hints 66 

Kipfel, Vienna 84 

Kugelhupf 99 

Pan Cakes, Berlin 93 

Pastry, Yeast Raised 95 

Plunder Pretzel 103 

Pretzel, Laugen 85 



9 



Page. 

Rings, Coffee 94 

Rings, German Twist 102 

Rings, Hazelnut 102 

Rolls, Crescent 82 

Rolls, French 81 

Rolls, German Double 81 

Rolls, German Water 83 

Rolls, Parker House 84 

Rolls, Plain 79, 80 

Rolls, Salt or Caraway Seed 82 

Rolls, Turn-Over 81 

Rolls, Vienna 82 

Rusks, Tea 90 

Speckkuchen, No. 1 96 

Speckkuchen, No. 2 96 

Savarin 100 

Semmel, Kaiser 83 

Snails 95 

Snails, Spanish (Pan de Gloria) 98 

Soup Stick 82 

Stollen 105 

Zwieback, Frosted 91 

Zwieback, German 91 

Zwieback, Infants 91 

Zwieback, Plain 90 



10 

Muffins, Gems, Griddle Cakes, Etc. 

Page. 

Apple Dumplings, Baked 107 

Cakes, Batter 116 

Cakes, Buckwheat 115 

Cakes, Flannel 115 

Corn Bread 113 

Gems, Chocolate Ill 

Gems, Corn 112 

Gems, Ginger Ill 

Gems, Graham 110 

Gems, Wheat 109 

Muffins, Corn 112 

Muffins, Egg 113 

Muffins, Graham Ill 

Muffins, Hominy 115 

Muffins, Mother 114 

Muffins, Mother Graham 115 

Muffins, Pop-Over 113 

Muffins, Rice Ill 

Muffins, Wheat 110 

Potato Biscuit 114 

Waffles, No. 1 107 

Waffles, No. 2 108 

Waffles, No. 3 109 

Miscellaneous. 

Icing, Boiled, "Fondant" 117 

Icing, Chocolate 117 

Icing, Plain 116 

Sugar Boiled to Soft Ball 117 



11 



GENERAL REMARKS. 



This book is divided into two parts, viz: "General In- 
structions" and "Recipes." 

In general, the information is suflSciently condensed to 
be clear only to such as already have a knowledge of the 
baking business. 

In many cases the mistake is made by publishers of 
recipe books of going too far into the explanation of the 
use of the recipe. 

A clear, limited explanation is sufficient for any baker 
who understands his business, and such a man will appre- 
ciate condensed information more than if he is forced to 
spend a lot of time in unnecessary reading. 

Again, the scientific names and the chemistry of baking 
is all well enough, but what is needed in the bakery is a 
practical man — a man who can use the theoretical points in 
a practical way, and it will be my aim to make these points 
as clear as possible. 



12 
THE BAKERY OF TODAY. 



The dream of a few years ago — to eliminate the element 
of "good or bad luck" in the baking business — is realized, 
and it is, without doubt, not saying too much, that the man- 
ufacture of a compressed yeast, whose uniformity could be 
depended upon every day, both summer and winter, and 
the quality of which was maintained at the very highest 
possible standard, has done more toward accomplishing that 
result than any other factor. 

Some attribute this success to the change of system in 
mining, some to the appliance of machinery; but, giving all 
due credit, the intelligent know that yeast is the mother of 
fermentation, the father of bread, which is the most desired 
article of food, so that it even found its way into our daily 
prayers. 

It is a fact that the last 25 years have seen more advance 
in the baking business than the 75 previous years, and 
since Fleischmann's Compressed Yeast has proven to be 
the most uniform article used by bakers during all this 
time, I have decided to base my work upon its use. 

Some claim that the elimination of yeast as a factor in 
bread production is bound to come, on account of the tinie 
wasted in fermentation, but everything known in this 
direction has proven that, compared with bread made with 
compressed yeast, such food has no room for comparison, 
and has been found to be a fake of the rankest kind in many 
instances. 

The only success made in this direction is to shorten 
working hours and manufacture of bread by the use of more 
compressed yeast, but not by the elimination of same. 



PART I. 
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS 



WHITE WHEAT FLOUR. 



There are two distinct kinds of wheat flour, known as 
"Spring" and "Winter" wheat flour. 

The "Spring" wheat flour is the strongest, as it contains 
the greatest per cent of gluten, and for this reason it will 
retain more moisture, thus producing a greater yield in both 
weight and volume of bread. 

In Spring wheat, the same as in Winter wheat, there 
are two distinct classes, namely, "Hard" and "Soft." This 
difference is more apparent in the Winter wheat than in 
Spring wheat flour; but in both instances a hard climate 
and rich soil produce the best wheat, a flour with more 
strength, which means "Gluten." 

But why is it that a given weight of flour varies in the 
quantity of bread it will make? 

It is a question of absorption of water and retention of 
moisture. 

Flour consists, so far as bakers need trouble about, of 
two constituents, namely, gluten and starch. Starch is the 
water absorber and gluten the moisture retainer. There- 
fore, capacity for water absorbing qualities in a flour does 



14 



not mean strength. Again, the retention of moisture by the 
gluten does not represent water alone, as is so often stated. 
Generally speaking, the strength in flour considered by the 
baker is its toughness, elasticity and springiness, when made 
into dough. Some flours are good water absorbers and 
still lack strength, for, to be profitable, they must be good 
water retaining flours, and this is where the gluten comes in. 

Of course, much depends upon the quality of gluten, as 
the quality differs exactly as the different grades of flour 
differ. In some flours, the gluten is so fine and delicate that, 
even if present in large quantities, is not capable of making 
a fair-sized loaf; again, in others the gluten is too hard, so 
that the flours must be over-fermented in order to get a 
good loaf. 

These are the extremes on both sides. 

The baker considers the tough-like flour, which makes 
a dough capable of stretching, and produces a sponge that 
is hard to break down when water is lifted on, as the ideal, 
with reference to strength, and the one with a high percent- 
age of hard gluten. And so it is, for it has the sure sign of 
the strong flour; but it does not prove the most economical 
one, especially when the much-wanted flavor of bread is 
considered. When the flour is considered too strong, the 
fermentation must also be a very strong one, otherwise 
shapeless loaves, with great holes in them, will result. 
Therefore, a baker must consider what is suitable for him, 
as no general rule can be applied for all. 

It becomes, therefore, necessary that the boss baker and 
the journeyman baker, alike, should have an exact knowl- 
edge of how to mix flours to get best results, and, at the 
same time, to supply the wants of the trade, considering 
flavor and size of loaves. 



15 



I will next consider the different grades of flour. 

The "Spring" wheat flour, as before stated, is the 
strongest, and is rated, as to the quality, according to its 
strength. 

The "Winter" wheat flour is divided into two classes, 
namely, "Red" Winter and the "Soft" white Winter flour. 
The red Winter is the harder, and has a reddish color when 
held to the light, as indicated by its name. The soft Winter 
wheat flour is the whitest, and its possible strength can often 
be judged by its color. In general, the white Winter wheat 
flour is mostly used for the manufacture of cakes and 
crackers, where gluten is of no value. But the baker, too, 
needs it, when he comes to consider the flavor and color of 
his bread. 

Soft Winter wheat, which has a light, yellow tint, but 
whiter than Spring wheat flour — one that will keep the 
form when pressed in the hollow of the hand, and will fall 
apart easily when touched — may be considered a good flour 
to be used for blending. But a flour of the same color, when 
too dusty, or one of a blue tint, has no actual value or 
advantage for the manufacture of bread. 

Soft white Winter flour contains less gluten than either 
the Spring or hard Winter. Its gluten is softer and more 
readily dissolved, acting as starter for dissolving the hard 
Winter gluten. The two combined facilitate the process of 
dissolving the Spring wheat gluten, through the action of 
the yeast. The Winter wheat flour, being more readily 
dissolved for fermentation, is the first nourishment for the 
yeast; hence, it naturally hastens fermentation. 

Spring wheat patent flours retain the form given them 
by the pressure of the hand, when touched very lightly, they 
fall apart readily. 



16 



Clear Spring flour and hard Winter wheat flour have a 
more gritty feeling, and can also be distinguished by their 
color. The Spring patent has a yellow tint and is smooth 
to the touch. Clear Spring is of a more yellowish tint and 
is coarser, and has the same gritty feeling as has the hard 
Winter, only that the latter has a reddish tint. The white 
Winter is much softer to the touch than is the red Winter 
or the hard Winter wheat flour; and, again, the hard Winter 
is a degree softer to the touch than Spring wheat flour. 

In this regard they compare as follows: 

Clear Spring wheat flour is the hardest to the touch; 
then, in order, patent Spring, hard Winter, Winter patent, 
and last, soft white Winter wheat flour. Winter wheat 
flour, from which have been extracted the best ingredients 
in the manufacture of patent flour, will either make a 
hard form through pressure of the hand — one that will fall 
apart in lumps or will not form at all, but has the appear- 
ance of so much dust. Avoid such flours, even for the 
cheapest breads. 

As before said, the quantity and quality of gluten con- 
tained in a flour constitutes its strength; but, again, gluten 
itself is divided into two distinct parts, namely, "Glutenin" 
and "Gliadin." A hard flour contains a larger per cent of 
glutenin, while a softer one usually contains a larger per- 
centage of gliadin. 

Gliadin is needed in larger proportions in the dough after 
the process of fermentation has taken place; but, unless 
rightly balanced with the glutenin, a flat and insipid loaf 
will result. 

This is the most important point referring to the respec- 
tive yield of flour and quality of bread. I will, therefore, 
treat this article separately and more thoroughly. 



17 



Low-priced flour does not mean economical flour, as the 
chief object must be to get the maximum quantity, with due 
respect for quality of bread. 



Luckily, the miller today attends to the proper blending 
by mixing the various wheats to produce what may be 
termed an ideal flour. This obviates the necessity of a 
baker carrying too many different grades of flour on hand. 
There exists, no doubt, but what the miller makes his blend 
in the most conscientious way, and is in a better position 
to make the blends required. Nevertheless, it is not only 
necessary, but also becomes the duty for everyone who has 
the handling of flour, to ascertain its comparative value, 
by means of simple tests, easily accomplished, but whatever 
tests we may employ, the baking test is the final and only 
really satisfactory one. 



Summing up, then, the gluten of a flour is its most 
valuable and important constituent, as it is the main 
substance distinguishing the characteristics of various 
flours. Again, the quality of the gluten should be its first 
consideration, as it really represents the stability of a flour. 
The water absorbing and retaining power of a flour is its 
stability. Flours that slack readily in the dough as fer- 
mentation progresses, and drop, before arriving at a certain 
standard proof, are by no means stable. 



The stability of flour poor in maltose or sugar, can be 
increased by adding extra malt extract or sugar; again, 
flours lacking spring in oven during baking may be improved 
by the addition of extra lard. Consequently, by adding the 
proper amount of ingredients, a good commercial loaf is 
often produced from flour that would otherwise produce 
an inferior loaf of bread. 



18 

Another condition which controls the quahty of bread 
is the temperature at which the flour is kept. Flour should 
not be exposed to an extremely low temperature, but should 
be kept, if possible, in a cool, dry storage, with an average 
temperature of 70° F. The storage room should be well 
ventilated, as flour absorbs and retains bad odors, so that it 
sometimes is noted in the bread. 

Age itself has a tendency to whiten flour. If properly 
stored, it may be kept in good condition for a whole year, 
but by long storage flour is bound to lose some of its delicate 
flavor. 



GLUTEN IN WHITE WHEAT FLOUR. 



The value of flour, of course, depends upon the quality 
and quantity of gluten it possesses, and also upon that 
substance from the soil, which, in the analyzation of the 
soil and in the investigation into the growing grain, is 
known as protein. The gluten itself consists of two distinct 
parts, namely glutenin and gliadin. In fact, there is no 
such thing as gluten in the flour; but by making flour into 
dough, the two combine. Gliadin is of a sticky nature, 
something like gum, and adheres to the glutenin during the 
process of bread-making. The glutenin, in its natural state, 
is of a dry, granular consistency; the two combined form 
gluten. 

In this form it is obtained by washing flour with water. 
The quality of flour varies in proportion to the amount of 
gliadin in the gluten, up to a certain limit. Patent flour, 
compared with Spring clear flour, shows gliadin of approx- 
imately 70% of the gluten in the patent flour and 60% in 
the straight Spring flour. In other flours, the gliadin rises 
as high as 80%; 70% of gliadin is the limit or ideal mark. 



19 



and a flour containing more than this percentage of gliadin 
is apt to produce a sticky dough. 

In other terms, the value of a flour, or consequently its 
gluten, first depends upon the quality of such gluten, which 
means the right proportion of glutenin and gliadin, and the 
quantity of gluten contained is only to be considered as a 
second factor, it is of much less value than quality. 



THE SEPARATION OF GLUTEN. 



The "gluten" may be approximately determined as fol- 
lows: Scale accurately twenty -five grams of flour, and in 
a suitable porcelain dish, mix with 13 to 15 cc of water, of 
about 80° Fahrenheit. The exact amount of water used 
should be 5% less than given for the absorption testx 
(See absorbing power.) Mix until the dough is clear, then 
cover the little ball of dough with water of the same tem- 
perature, and allow to stand for one hour exactly. 

Next, over a fine hair sieve, wash out the starch and 
soluble matters, using a large excess of water, by kneading 
the little dough ball carefully between the fingers, taking 
care not to separate the dough. When the washings no 
longer become milky, and no visible particles of dough are 
left in the remaining gluten, it may then be considered 
washed clean. Allow this fresh gluten to lie in water of 
same temperature for half hour; next take from water and 
press out the surplus water, by working the gluten gently 
between the fingers, and drying the hands occasionally on a 
towel, and continue this operation until all surplus water 
has been worked off. Care must be taken that no particles 
of dough or gluten remain in the sieve, over which the dough 
was washed. Next bring this gluten, which is now in its 



20 

wet stage, on to a piece of counterpoised paper, and weigh 
it carefully. The amount of dry gluten can be readily 
calculated by multiplying the weight of the wet gluten 
by 4, and dividing the product by 3, which will give 
approximately correct results. The wet gluten may be 
dried at a temperature, ranging from 210° to 220° F., 
until the weight is constant, and figures thus obtained 
will agree very closely with those of the calculated dry 
gluten. 

The general condition of a gluten, its color, tenacity, 
elasticity, stickiness and other points, must be carefully 
noted before the gluten is dried and the quality of the 
gluten judged by general results. 

The gluten may be dissolved into its two original con- 
stituents, namely, glutenin and gliadin, by placing the wet 
gluten into a flask containing about 100 cc solution of 
70% alcohol and 1% of salt; allow this to digest over a 
water bath, then filter. 

The residue, after being re washed with strong alcohol, 
represents the glutenin. The filtrate is distilled, the 
rest, containing the gliadin, is further evaporated until the 
weight becomes constant, and the gliadin is therefrom 
calculated. 

(cc stands for cubic centimeter, which corresponds 
to one gram in weight.) 



THE ABSORPTION POWER OF FLOUR. 



The absorbing power of a flour is determined by weighing 
out 25 grams of flour into a suitable dish and adding water 
from a graduated burette, then making up the two into a 
dough of the proper, and a certain standard consistency, 
which latter always must be alike for all samples tested. 
The number of cc and decimals used of water as indicated 



21 



by the burette, are multiplied by 4, and the product 
expresses the percentage of water-absorbing power. 

This result is next confirmed by making a sample baking, 
using the proper amount of yeast, salt and other ingredients, 
taking care to make the dough of the same consistency as 
before. Weigh the dough carefully and make a notation 
of its weight. Next proceed to work the dough in the usual, 
but very careful, manner into bread. Immediately, upon 
drawing from oven, the bread is weighed, and the loss cal- 
culated. This gives the moisture-retaining power of a 
flour. In order to get proper results, the sample dough 
must be carried at a uniform temperature, the length of 
fermentation must be always the same, and the same hold 
good for the heat of oven, which should be 425° F. Unless 
uniform conditions prevail, the retaining power of a flour 
will be affected. 



THE STRENGTH OF FLOUR. 



The strength of flour is dependent upon the quality, 
condition and quantity of gluten present, and can only be 
determined by making a careful test for absorption, followed 
up by a thorough baking test. Considering all points, the 
baking test gives the most satisfactory results. 



THE COLOR OF FLOUR. 



The color of a flour is best defined by the well-known 
"Pekar" test. A fine, creamy yellow shade is a typical color 
of a high-grade flour. Starchy and weak wheats usually 
yield white flours. The various shades may be defined as 



22 



ranging from a fine, creamy yellow, with good bloom, to a 
yellowish brown, brownish grey, greyish white, to a dead 
white color. 

The color of various flours may be compared by pressing 
a small quantity of each on a piece of plate-glass or smooth 
wooden board, so no air-bubbles remain. 

This is done by bringing the flour slick, from the upper 
to the lower end of the glass or board, and should leave a 
smooth surface. Next trim the edges. 

Treat the other flours to be examined in a like manner. 
Next compare the samples, and note the various shades of 
them. The samples are next submerged obliquely into a 
basin of fresh water, immediately withdrawn, set in a 
slanting position, and allowed to dry on a moderately cool 
place. The colors are again noted, and marked differences 
in shades will be observed by comparison. 

With a little practice in this work, anyone can easily 
compare the colors of flours. 



NATURAL MOISTURE IN FLOUR. 



The natural amount of moisture varies from 9% to 
13.5%; for freshly milled flour 12.5% may be given as a 
good average. More than 13.5% should be considered an 
overpercentage of moisture, and would have detrimental 
effect on the storage properties of such a flour. 

The moisture of a flour is determined by weighing care- 
fully a small amount; dry same from 3 to 4 hours in a 
drying oven at 212° F., desiccate and weigh. Repeat the 
heating, cooling and weighing until the weight becomes 
constant. By the loss, calculate the amount of moisture 
contained in the sample under examination. 



23 



MALT EXTRACT AS IT AFFECTS THE MANU- 
FACTURE OF BREAD. 



The preparation made for bakers and sold to them as 
Malt Extract should be prepared at a comparatively low 
temperature in mashing, in order to conserve the diastase. 
The diastase and proteids in such an extract exist in a more 
concentrated form, than in higher temperature extracts. 
Of course the grade of Malt used in itself is of importance; 
pure barley malt extract is by far the most desirable and 
should be given preference over extracts made from blend 
of malt and other extracts. 

Diastase in malt extract, is the active agent by which 
the saccharification of starch is caused, producing maltose 
sugar from the starch of the flour of other gelatinized 
starch products that may be added to the dough or devel- 
oped in baking. 

The formation of maltose sugar with small quantities 
ol dextrine is productive of good flavor and unmistakably 
increases the moisture-retaining power in the finished loaf 
of bread. It indirectly improves the size and color by 
reason of the stimulating action which Maltose sugar has 
on yeast, by being directly fermentable, and thereby the 
work of the yeast is hastened and fermentation accomplished 
quicker and more thoroughly. 

During the stages of fermentation yeast feeds on the 
maltose for the purpose of supplying alcohol and carbon 
dioxide gas. Diastase has by itself a slow action on the 
wheat starch, but when the starch is submitted to the joint 
action of Malt Extract and Yeast, the quantity of starch 



24 



affected by the joint action is greatly increased. If gelatinized 
starch products, say two percent to the weight of flour used, 
are added this action is accelerated and the dough thereby 
considerably benefited. The diastase, however, remains 
continuously active during the entire process of baking, 
producing maltose sugar all the while, until during baking a 

temperature of about 170° F. is reached, at which 

point the diastase itself is killed. But the rise in tempera- 
ture in the interior of the loaf is more gradual, and so also 
is the action of the diastase greater, reaching its maximum 
near the center of the loaf. The yeast itself is destroyed 
at a much lower temperature and as the diastase remains 
longer active, it is evident that none of the maltose produced 
by this latter action can be fermented by the yeast, but 
remains in the bread as maltose and dextrine. 

These substances account for the sweetness, improved 
flavor and moisture in the bread. 

I can recommend everyone interested in the manufac- 
ture of the best bread to the use of malt extract. Malt 
extract improves the bulk of bread by its influence on 
fermentation. It improves the texture, bloom, moisture, 
whiteness, flavor and keeping qualities of the bread by its 
sugar producing qualities. 

Other things being equal, the market value of a loaf of 
bread is in direct proportion to the amount of sugar left 
therein after baking. 

The longer the fermentation is continued, the more of 
the sugar contained in the dough will be consumed by fer- 
mentation. Thus we develop "sour bread." 

As malt extract continues to make maltose sugar, even 
during part of the time the bread is in the oven, its value 
to the baker becomes at once very pronounced. 



25 
VARIOUS ACIDS IN WHITE WHEAT FLOUR. 



Generally speaking, the characteristic acid in the wheat 
flour is given as lactic acid and, for convenience, the acidity 
is expressed as percentage amount of lactic acid. 

Wheat flour, when fermented with yeast, increases in 
acid contents in direct proportion with the quality of the 
yeast employed and with the temperature of the dough. 

The percentage amount of lactic acid in a good flour is 
termed at 0.09 per cent and this percentage amount of acid 
consists, as far as is known in this direction, of 95% lactic, 
43^% acetic and 1-10 to 3^% of butyric acid. 

Acids contained in this proportion in flour have bene- 
ficial influences, both for flavor of bread and assistance in 
fermentation. 

During the process of fermentation the lactic acid in- 
creases the quickest and the acetic acid very slow; that is to 
say, if the dough is properly manipulated. 

The increase of acid during fermentation is produced 
by bacteria, and these acids are known as organic acids. 

Again, they do not affect doughs alike, as much depends 
upon the temperature of the dough. 

A dough at too high a temperature will develop acetic 
acid very rapidly, and too much of this acid will cause an 
over percentage of butyric acid, which means bad results 
and likely sour bread. 

The lactic acid, always present under normal condi- 
tions, unlike the acetic acid, will increase too rapidly in a 
dough at too low a temperature. Lactic acid, while greatly 
beneficial in a dough when present in the right proportion, 
is also detrimental when present in too large a quantity, 
as too much of it will assist the acetic acid to grow too 



26 



rapidly, and what effects this has upon the bread are visible 
in the foregoing. 

Another main factor to be considered is the influence 
the quality of the yeast used has upon the acidity of the 
doughs. Bad yeast — yeast that is either too weak in 
strength or one with too much acid contents — will increase 
the acidity of the dough too rapidly; thus showing why a 
well-proportioned yeast should be used. 



HEALTHFULNESS OF WHITE WHEAT, ENTIRE 
WHEAT AND GRAHAM FLOUR. 



It is a general theory among many people that bread 
made from Graham and entire wheat flour is far more di- 
gestible than that made of white wheat flour. 

Such, however, is not the case. White wheat bread, 
when properly made from a good quality of flour, is not only 
more digestible than the Graham and entire wheat breads, 
but also contains the largest amount of protein. 

Graham and entire wheat flours show the highest per- 
centage of gluten and protein before fermentation, and 
white wheat flour the largest after fermentation. The dif- 
ference noticeable in this respect is decidedly in favor of the 
white wheat flour. 

This is due to the fact that the Graham and entire 
wheat flours contain more acids, an over percentage of 
which is detrimental to fermentation. 

The excess of acid contained in the outer part of the 
wheat berry destroys, during the act of fermentation, so 
much of the gluten that the food value of "Graham and 
Entire wheat breads" becomes inferior to that of "White 
wheat bread." 



27 



In the Spring of the year 1900 considerable interest was 
shown by some of the highest state officials of New York to 
substitute entire wheat bread for white wheat breads in 
state institutions, believing the former more nutritious. 
These attempts have led to a chemical analysis by the 
United States Government. This analyzation of the dif- 
ferent flours, all made of the same quality of wheat, proved 
the white wheat flour the superior of all. 

After baking, the white wheat flour not only proved the 
more digestible, but the protein contents were as follows: 

White wheat flour 12.5% protein. 

Graham flour 12.1 " 

Entire wheat flour 11.9 

The claim, therefore, that the Graham and entire wheat 
flours are more easily digested, on account of the diastase 
contained in the wheat kernel not extracted from these 
flours, is not founded upon facts. Any intelligent person 
can easily judge upon the truthfulness of some of these pub- 
lished statements, from the following: 

Diastase is no more than a ferment. No ferment can 
live in a temperature of 212° Fahrenheit, and a loaf of 
bread to be baked must reach the temperature of 212° F. in 
the interior of the loaf. The outside of the loaf is exposed 
to a temperature at the lowest of 300° F. and as high as 
500° F. The statement, therefore, that the diastase can 
live during the process of baking is laughable, and if some 
of those who have made discriminating statements against 
white wheat bread would stop and consider this they would 
see their own errors. 

Graham and entire wheat breads have their own 
advantage, since they have laxative effects, and are, there- 
fore, valuable for people suffering with constipation; but 



28 

to state that they contain more nourishment than bread 
made of white wheat flour is going too far, and people 
making such statements will never be able to prove them. 

The matter, sifted, proves the following: 

The first point to be considered is not so much the 
chemical constituents of the food, as the ability of the 
stomach to assimilate the constituents of such foods and, 
second, our own preference for such foods, for unless they 
are partaken of with a relish little will be the benefits 
arrived at, and, furthermore, what is good for one may 
prove disastrous to another. 

The healthfulness of bread, therefore, depends upon the 
purity and quality of its ingredients and care in its prepar- 
ation. 

In general, Graham and entire wheat flours are made 
of softer wheat than the white wheat flours used for the 
manufacture of bread. But, even if the flours are all made 
of the same wheat, the advantage of nutritious value will 
always be with the white wheat flour bread. 



RYE FLOUR. 



Rye flour contains less gluten than white wheat flour. 
Its gluten has a peculiar property of retaining moisture in 
the bread long after baking, but has not the same expansion 
qualities, as has the gluten of the white wheat flour. 

The expansion of rye flour in the manufacture of bread 
is, therefore, governed not only by the quality of rye flour 
used, but also by the amount and quality of wheat flour 
with which the rye is blended. 



29 



Alone, rye flour would make too soggy a loaf of bread, 
hard to digest, while the addition of white wheat flour in- 
creases the nutritious value of the rye bread and renders the 
same more digestible. 

The combination of the two flours, therefore, compares 
favorably as an article of food. 

The flavor of the rye bread chiefly depends upon the 
process of fermentation employed in the manufacture of the 
bread and of the quantity, as well as quality, of white wheat 
flour used for the blend. 

Rye flour is more fermentative than white wheat flour, 
and more salt must be used in the manufacture of rye bread, 
according to the amount of rye flour in the blend. 

Too much rye flour should never be used, unless specially 
ordered, as too much of it will often cause a state of diar- 
rhoea to the unaccustomed, and prejudice them against 
rye bread. 

The stiffness of rye dough must be regulated according 
to strength of the flour. The softest rye dough makes the 
best bread. 

All rye bread, to be digestible, should be baked on the 
sole of the oven, and not in tins. 



POINTS ABOUT FERMENTATION. 



The term fermentation was first applied to the action of 
yeast changing the sugars or carbohydrates contained in the 
dough into alcohol and carbon dioxide gas. 

The different stages of fermentation are known as 
alcoholic, acetous and putrefactive fermentations. 

The process of fermentation, which has for its object 
the manufacture of bread, must be of alcoholic nature. 



so 

Alcoholic fermentation is the one that makes the bread 
light and porous. 

Acetous fermentation, when present in the right per- 
centage, improves the flavor of the bread, but as soon as it 
becomes too strong it will cause the alcoholic fermentation 
to stop, and the result is a heavy loaf of bread. 

The putrefactive fermentation is the last stage of fer- 
mentation following the acetous fermentation. Sometimes 
it is present in dough and causes the much-dreaded "rope 
in bread." 

Alcoholic fermentation is the name given to the change 
which takes place in the maltos matter of the dough, form- 
ing carbonic acid gas, which, if the bread is baked at the 
right time, will lighten the bread and make it digestible. 

Acetous fermentation, when present in the right per- 
centage, softens the gluten and increases the expansion 
qualities of the dough. A remarkable fact about ferments 
is that the substances Ihey produce, in time, put a stop to 
their own activity. 

Fermentation, then, is the name given to the process, in 
which soluble ferments or enzymes play an important part, 
by which the carbohydrates, especially the sugars, are de- 
composed mainly into carbon dioxide and alcohol, with 
traces of acids and other substances. 



YEAST. 



The first and most important factor, to create a good 
and healthy fermentation, is, of course, good yeast. 



31 

But the question now arises, which is the best and most 
reliable, as well as most universally adopted yeast? 

The intelligent baker knows that compressed yeast is 
the most uniform article in this line, and also that Fleisch- 
mann's Compressed Yeast is always found reliable. There 
are other brands on the market; but, generally speaking, 
the surest is the best and the cheapest in the end. 

Most experiments of a scientific nature, where com- 
pressed yeasts were employed have been made with Fleisch- 
mann's Compressed Yeast, and, therefore, I wish to remind 
the reader that I base my statements on the use of this 
well-known product. 

Some bakers buy low priced yeast in wrong economy; 
others make stock yeast or buy the same; again, others 
make potato ferments, using either stock or compressed 
yeast for stocking. 

Certainly a nice bloom and flavor can be given to bread 
by the use of any of these yeasts, but the consideration of 
which is the best, most economical and most nutritive bread 
will teach that a good brand of compressed yeast has every- 
thing in its favor. The strength and quality of the yeast 
depends upon the care with which it is made. The yeast 
itself is divided into two distinct classes, namely, cultivated 
and wild yeast. 

Cultivated yeast is represented in the form of a good 
compressed yeast, while stock yeast contains wild yeasts. 

Yeast represents millions upon millions of small micro- 
scopic plants, of which the air itself is full. Therefore, if 
the yeast does not possess an overwhelming percentage of 
the right kind of these microscopic plants, the wrong fer- 
mentation will set in too soon. This causes a loss in yield, 
a different flavor and destroys the nutritive value of the 



S£ 

bread to a certain extent. This occurs exactly in proportion 
with the quality of the yeast used. 

The concern that makes compressed yeast a specialty, 
wherein its production is of the first consideration, aims al- 
ways to manufacture goods of a superior class. Having, as 
the originators and leaders in its business, a reputation to 
maintain, the best wages are paid in order to obtain the 
most skilled and experienced help. The best grain that the 
market affords is used in the manufacture of its yeast. 
Every batch is thoroughly tested. It must come up to a cer- 
tain fixed standard of excellence or it is not sent out to the 
trade. The output of the compressed yeast factory of that 
class may be depended upon in all seasons of the year as 
being the best which money and science can produce. 

Unreliability is the ever-present evil besetting cheap 
yeast; lack of uniformity is its chief characteristic. When 
yeast is a by-product and the manufacturer figures from 
a diversified standpoint, greatly inferior grain can be used, 
and is used. Low-priced and inexperienced help is em- 
ployed, thus greatly lowernig the cost price at which yeast 
can be turned out. When the grade of grain is fair and 
other conditions exceptionally favorable, yeast of that sort 
answers the baker's purpose for the time being and ostens- 
ibly saves him money, but this favorable state of affairs is 
inevitably short-lived. In a factory where the product of 
compressed yeast is a secondary consideration, grain is pur- 
chased in small quantities, and consequently often of an 
inferior quality. Yeast manufactured as a by-product is 
invariably and always the cause of trouble sooner or later 
for the baker who uses it. He will lose more money in a 
few days through the failure of cheap yeast than he could 
save in a year by the difference in price which he pays for 
cheap yeast and that which first-class yeast commands. 
That is but a simple statement of an incontrovertible fact. 



33 



The wise baker knows that it is not an easy matter to 
regain trade lost through the medium of inferior bread. 
Poor bread is the natural offspring of cheap yeast. The un- 
wise discovers too late, to his sorrow, that it is false economy 
to use any other than the very best compressed yeast. In 
no other commodity does the old adage that the "best is 
always the cheapest" so fittingly apply as it does to first- 
class yeast in the baker's craft. 

Considering the amount of work that a baker has to do 
today to bring his business to a paying basis, and then the 
amount of extra work he would have in making his own 
malt or stock yeast, it is plainly shown that good com- 
pressed yeast, ever ready for use, has everything in its favor. 

The difference in yield between a good compressed 
yeast and lower grades of compressed yeasts is from 2% to 
7%, and if stock yeast is used alone the loss of ingredients 
during fermentation will be as high as 15%. Considering 
that the loss in fermentation consists of the most nourishing 
properties of the flour, it is very easy to form an opinion as 
to which is the best and most inexpensive yeast to use for 
the manufacture of bread. 



THE TEMPERATURE OF THE DOUGH. 



By using compressed yeast, the time necessary for the 
fermentation can be accurately calculated, if the right tem- 
perature and the right blend of flours are used. 

To get a uniform loaf of bread should be the aim of 
every workman. A batch of dough should never be made 



without the temperature of flour and bakery being accu- 
rately taken and, from that, the heat of the water calculated, 
not guessed at. 

A main point is to keep the temperature of the bakeshop 
as regular as possible by means of heating or ventilation. 
The most favorable temperature for the fermenting 
room is 76° F. 

The best temperature for a dough directly after mixing 
is 78° F. in summer to 82° F. in winter. 

The following example will serve to show how the proper 
temperature of a dough may be obtained under unfavorable 
conditions: 

If the temperature in the shop is 85° F. 

And the temperature of the flour 67° F, 

Then let the water be of 82° F. 

3 )234° F . 

Making the desired average 78° F. 

If the temperature of the shop is 72° F. 

And the flour 62° F. 

Then heat the water to 100° F. 

3 )234° F. 
Making the desired average 78° F. 

With the use of a good thermometer, which should 
always be found in a well-regulated bakery, there should be 
no excuse for not having good bread, nor delays in getting 
the bread ready by a specified time. Neither should a 
master-baker be excused for having the dough ready for 
the oven before it can receive it. 

For high-speed dough mixers a special allowance must 
be made which is from two tothirly-five degrees Fahrenheit. 

This allowance must be deducted from above calculation 
for water temperature. 



S5 
DIFFERENT SCALES OF THERMOMETERS. 



Having discussed the temperature at which doughs 
should be fermented, I think it appropriate to give some 
information as to how to change the different scales into 
Fahrenheit and vice versa, as the different scales are often 
published in trade papers. 

The different scales are distinguished as follows: 





(1) "R" si 

(2) "C" 

(3) "F" 


ignifies Reamur. 
" Celsius or Centegrade. 
Fahrenheit. 


In comparison, the differences are as follows: 


"R" 


"C" 


"F" 


80° 

29 7-10° 


100 
37 2-10 


212 Boiling point of water. 
99 Bloodheat. 


17 1-10° 


22 7-10 


73 Summerheat. 


9 1-10° 
0° 


10 4-10 



523^2 Temperate. 

32 Freezing point of water. 



MANNER OF CHANGING THE DIFFERENT 
SCALES. 

To transform Fahrenheit into Reamur, deduct from 
degrees of Fahrenheit 32, the remaining sum multiply by 4, 
and divide the product by 9. The quotient received consti- 
tutes the corresponding degrees in Reamur. 

To transform Fahrenheit into Celsius, deduct from 
degrees of Fahrenheit 32, the remaining sum multiply 
by 5 and divide this product by 9. The quotient received 
constitutes the corresponding degrees in Celsius. 

To transform Celsius into Fahrenheit, multiply the 



36 

degrees of Celsius by 9, divide the product by 5 and to the 
quotient add 32. The result received constitutes the 
corresponding degrees in Fahrenheit. 

To transform Celsius into Reamur multiply the degrees 
of Celsius by 4 and divide the product by 5. The quotient 
received gives the corresponding degrees in Reamur. 

To transform Reamur into Fahrenheit, multiply the 
degrees of Reamur by 9, divide the product by 4 and add to 
the quotient 32. The result constitutes the corresponding 
degrees of Fahrenheit. 

To transform Reamur into Celsius, divide the degrees 
of Reamur by 4, to the quotient add the original degrees of 
Reamur and the result is the corresponding degrees of 
Celsius. 



SPONGE. 



In setting sponge before doughing the process of fer- 
mentation is lengthened and, therefore, today, in nearly all 
the large bakeries^straight dough process is employed. But, 
the same as the straight dough process has its advantage for 
the large bakery, so the sponge system, too, has advantages 
for the small baker, as it enables him to make all different 
kinds of breads from one sponge. 

In general, the sponge bread is lighter and whiter than 
the straight dough process bread, but the latter has a better 
flavor after the bread is baked. 

In small bakeries, where often different kinds and 
shapes of bread are required, they can be easily taken from 
the sponge; also, should it be necessary to cut down the 
amount of bread from what was first intended when sponge 
was set the sponge may be taken younger and less water 
lifted on, or, if the sponge is of age, less water and more 



37 



salt added. Also, if the sponge is too old, it can be regu- 
lated by either the addition of more salt or water; but the 
sponge with too much age — one that is over ready — if no 
precautions are taken, will make a small and pale loaf, 
and care should be taken to handle and mix such a sponge 
as little as possible, so as to save the small amount of 
strength remaining. 

In such a case a slack dough is good, and the addition of 
a little extra sugar and lard, with a hot oven, will improve 
color, flavor and appearance of crust. A green or young 
sponge must be worked just the opposite; a tighter dough 
of higher temperature, less sugar and a cooler oven will 
bring better results in such a case. A sponge can be set to 
meet the requirements of time when it should be ready, as 
through the use of ice water or a small amount of salt, they 
can be kept in good condition from 5 to 8 hours. 

The regular time for a sponge under normal conditions 
is from three and a half to four hours. Two pounds and a 
half of strong flour to one quart of water will make the 
average stiffness required for sponge. 

In selecting flour for sponge bread, the points of rela- 
tive flavor, strength and color should be considered. For 
sponge, stronger flour should be used than for doughing, 
and the proportion is as follows: 

Out of ten points consider for sponge, five for strength 
and the other five equally divided in flavor and color. For 
doughing, take two points for strength, three for color and 
five for flavor. 

For such a blend use half of water for the setting of 
sponge and lift the other half on for doughing. When 
sponge is broken down and mixed with water, lifted on for 
doughing, the mixture will then represent half of its bulk 
in water. 



38 



This means that if a baker wishes to make, for instance, 
15 pounds of graham bread from the white bread sponge, 
he will dip six quarts of this diluted sponge into another 
vessel. The 6 quarts represent 3 quarts of water; and, 
since 1 quart of water on the average represents 5 pounds 
of pan bread, or 4>^ of Vienna, the advantages to make the 
different kinds of bread by dipping out sponge and adding 
other ingredients than used for plain bread can be easily 
seen, since a batch can be just as well calculated as if a 
straight dough is made. 

A sponge has its different stages of ripeness and should 
never be set too soft. The stiffness of the bread sponge 
should be regulated by the strength of the flour used. 

A sponge set medium stiff, that has risen and begins to 
recede, is ready for Vienna bread. For water-bread it 
should have its first drop, that is when the sponge drops 
back about two inches. The sponge at this stage will give 
more crust to the bread. 

For rolls and sweet rolls the sponge should have its 
first drop, but, if a bread of a very large expansion and 
hard crust is desired, a stronger flour must be used for 
sponge and the same allowed to come up again after first 
drop, and the water lifted on as soon as it commences to 
recede the second time. 

This will show the following: A green or young 
sponge will make a closer-grained loaf, with better flavor 
and lighter crust, while age in sponge means expansion, 
lightness and whiteness of loaf and a heavier crust. 

Too much age in sponge will influence the color of the 
bread too much by making a pale loaf; but this can be partly 
remedied by washing the bread before baking with a dilution 
of egg-water or boiled cornstarch thinly diluted with water. 

An over-ripe sponge will make a heavy and often sour 



39 

loaf of bread. Therefore, if a sponge gets ready too quick 
through change of temperature of the shop, the water and 
salt should be added to the sponge and the sponge broken 
down fine. In this manner it can be delayed considerable 
time without injurious results to the bread. 



DOUCHING. 



The sponge system of bread-making was so universally 
in practice until recently that the doughing in this respect 
needs but a short explanation. 

After the sponge is ready the remaining water is lifted 
on, in which the salt has been previously dissolved. After 
the dough is mixed smooth then add the lard and mix 
thoroughly. If sugar is used, dissolve same with the salt. 

After the dough is mixed, allow to rest for one hour 
and fifteen minutes to one hour and a half, that is, until it 
will sink back when the hand is inserted into the dough and 
withdrawn quickly; then cut the dough over, laying the 
same dry while working; allow to rest from 10 to 45 min- 
utes, according to quality of bread desired. 

A sponge dough should never get full proof the second 
time after the first proof is worked out of it; but, by laying 
same occasionally together, it can be kept in good condition 
until all is scaled off and moulded into loaves. 

For straight dough — which is the more simple way of 
making bread — the yeast is dissolved in part of the water, 
the salt in another, then all the water lifted in a trough or 
machine and the flour added. The dough should be worked 
for at least ten minutes before the lard is added, and as soon 
as the lard is added and the dough worked smooth with the 
same, then allow to rest for proof. 

It is a wrong theory to add the lard at the first stages of 



40 



doughing, as it will not give wanted results and the flour 
will not absorb the same quantities of water as if the lard 
is added after the dough is partly mixed smooth. 

A dough is bad or good in the ratio to the perfect incor- 
poration of the flour with other ingredients, the temperature 
at which dough is made and kept and the quality of material 
employed. All these points need their due consideration. 

The temperature of the bakeshop during the operation 
of moulding is another important feature, as a dough fer- 
ments more while it lays on the bench than at any other 
stage. This shows that aerating of a slow dough often 
hastens fermentation and ripeness of dough. 

So, the same as the sponge has its different stages of 
ripeness, a straight dough also has its different stages of 
ripeness. 

A dough that would be over-ripe for a 13/^ lb. pan loaf 
would not be ripe enough for rolls or a hard crusty bread 
and, again, much depends upon the oven. Therefore, no 
strict rule can be followed to meet all instances. 

A hot oven can stand more fermentation or a more 
over-ripe loaf, as it will help to keep up the loaf in the oven, 
while too hot an oven for a green or young loaf would 
hinder the latter to develop and be apt to give too much 
color. This is the same in the sponge and straight dough 
systems, and the important point, therefore, is that each 
baker must know his oven and that he must bring on his 
dough to meet his baking facilities. 

The best all-around system, and likewise by far the 
most prominent one, is that known as the "straight-dough 
method." 

Very few who worked straight dough system ever 
return to the longer system of sponge dough. Shorter sys- 
tems for the manufacture of bread are decidedly gaining 



41 

ground. Sweetness and palatableness in bread are bound to 
continue to prevail and this is best obtained by the straight 
dough method, which also gives the largest yield and by its 
simplicity of method is by far the best for commercial 
purposes. 

Generally speaking, sponge is best used for fancy breads 
and straight dough for the average bread, for in this manner 
the advantages of both systems can be best appropriated. 

A straight dough should never be made without the use 
of a thermometer, to get uniformity day after day, for after 
the dough is once made the temperature of the dough is not 
easily affected. In this respect the sponge has its advantage, 
since if the sponge is too quick, colder water can be lifted 
on for dough and vice versa. If the sponge is too slow the 
water may be heated, but should never be more than 112 F., 
since it otherwise may scald the sponge. 

It must be remembered here that "Practice makes per- 
fect," and a master baker must watch all conditions closely 
and guide his work according to his findings, since there 
are so many different items that are apt to change the march 
of a shop, and the water is not one of the least to be con- 
sidered. 

Sometimes water is hard and, again, in other shops soft, 
and this has just as much to do with the fermentation as has 
the temperature of the water. The softer the water the 
quicker the fermentation, while hard water will require 
more yeast. 

The boihng of water sometimes has a softening ten- 
dency, but not always. A baker that is forced to bake with 
hard water should keep his temperature a little higher than 
if softer water is used, and here it must be stated that the 
cooler the fermentation is brought on the more resistance 



42 



will be in the dough and the better the flavor and uniform- 
ity of bread. 

Therefore, such changes cannot be effected only by 
heating water, but also the quantity as well as the quality of 
yeast used must be considered together with temperature of 
the water. 



YIELD. 



The question arises : What causes the different yield of 
flour.'* And the answer is: The quantity and quality of 
gluten in them. 

But unless we go about in a careful manner and study 
these conditions, little benefit will be derived from the ad- 
vantages gained in making a careful and well-propor- 
tioned blend. 

Therefore, after we have the blend, we must next con- 
sider the fermentation agent, "The Yeast." Of course, the 
strongest and most uniform yeast is the best for the yield 
question, since, through proper manipulation, there need 
not be any loss noticeable during fermentation, while in 
stock yeast and other cheap yeasts, the loss extends from 
4% to 15% of flour constituents during the process of rais- 
ing dough. This means that in a barrel of flour from 1 to 
30 pounds are consumed during the act of fermentation, and 
this constitutes the most nourishing qualities of the wheat 
and flour. This is one of the main factors why good com- 
pressed yeast is most universally used. 

Of course, the yield of a flour is also governed by the 
kind of bread that is being made, and for that reason we 
must divide bread into two classes, namely, Oven Sole or 
Crusted Bread, and second, Tin or Pan Bread. The former 



43 



of these are those that stand independently in the oven, and 
the dough for such loaves must be stiff enough and have 
sufficient strength of fermentation to stand upright without 
any support. 

In addition to the various causes of variations in the 
relative yield already mentioned, there are others, such as 
sifting the flour directly before mixing of the dough and 
the proper application of machinery. 

It is undeniable that the use of machinery compels a 
more systematic procedure. Likewise the loaf divider ar- 
rests considerable loss in scaling, whereas the dough-mixing 
machine itself, by giving the dough a good deal of agitation 
during mixing, develops the gluten, allowing the admission 
of more water than would be otherwise the case, at the 
same time producing a dough of the same consistency. The 
blade, or blades, sometimes called the agitator of a mixer, 
has a good deal to do with the length of time a dough must 
be mixed to derive best results. The best test is to look at 
the dough when finished and thereby judge the length of 
time best suitable for mixing a dough. 

For example, a dough ordinarily mixed, say for com- 
parison sake would require 6 hours for fermentation, then 
a dough properly mixed at higher speed would acquire its 
proper age in 4}^ to 5 hours. By shortening the fermenta- 
tive period naturally more of the desirable ingredients are 
retained in the dough. This is especially true in reference to 
the sugar contained in the flour as well as added sugars to 
the mix. Developing the gluten means partially the soften- 
ing of the protein contents of a dough, which otherwise is 
entirely left for the fermentation to accomplish. 

Another point to be remembered in favor of employing 
quick methods is that they prevent a dough from slackening 



44 



too much. In other words, a short fermentation increases 
the stability of the flour. This is an economical advantage. 
To sum up, yields are increased by sifting flour imme- 
diately before using, and by shortening the period of fer- 
mentation. This is best accomplished by the use of a 
strong, uniform yeast, bakery machinery, and straight 
doughs. 



AMOUNT OF WATER USED FOR DOUCHING 
WITH REFERENCE TO YIELD. 



The quantity of water which a barrel of flour will 
absorb depends upon the strength of the flour, strong flour 
taking considerably more water than soft flour, also machine- 
made dough will take more water than a hand-made dough, 
and again a high-speed dough mixer will admit more water 
than a low-speed mixer. 

The direct advantages derived from proper mixing are 
increased yield, more whiteness, better bread by being more 
nutritious, or more economical manufacture by saving of 
ingredients. This increase in yield is due to the develop- 
ment of the gluten, thereby decreasing the fermentative 
period and consequently increasing in the same proportion 
the stability of a flour and making possible the admission 
of more water. 

The amount of water used to a barrel of flour differs in 
accordance with the different kinds of bread on the mar- 
ket. Dough for pan loaves should be made softer, than 
dough for loaves to be baked directly on the sole of the 
oven. 

Of course, the baker himself must use good judgment 
and consider the quality of bread before he forces excessive 
yield. 



45 



The yield, therefore, is dependent first on the method 
employed for mixing, secondly on the kind and amount of 
ingredients added to a dough, and third upon the kind of 
bread made from such a dough. 

The direct question of yield remains a much contested 
question and no answer to suit all circumstances can be 
given. 

The aforestated contentions are for comparison of 
doughs made with the same amount of yeast. The amount 
of yeast used greatly governs yield. A cool dough, with 
plenty of salt and yeast, has a stimulating effect not only on 
the yield, but also on the quality and keeping quality of the 
bread. 



SALT. 

• 

Salt has a deterrent action upon fermentation, even 
when used in very small quantities. Its action is directly 
upon the yeast and is not dependent upon other ingredients 
in the dough. 

Salt neutralizes the acidity of the dough, gives flavor to 
the bread and governs fermentation. 

Salt, the same as cold, retards fermentation. There- 
fore, lightness of the loaf can be influenced by the quantity 
of the salt used. 

From 1% to 2% of salt is used in proportion to the 
weight of flour made into bread; for milk-bread use 1-3 less 
salt than for water-breads, and for sweet-breads only one- 
third of the salt employed for water-bread. 

Plenty of salt and a good strong fermentation make 
a good deal better loaf of bread, as a weak fermentation, 
assisted by using less salt, not only promotes the likelihood 
of sour bread, but also makes a loaf without flavor. 



46 
ROPE IN BREAD. 



This is the most dreaded bread disease and many 
bakers do not know the real cause of it. Years ago the 
cause of rope was ascribed to filth. It was then more 
common. The bakeries were, many of them, located in 
damp cellars and it required only excessive heat to develop 
rope. 

Rope is a germ disease. The germs are most likely to 
develop during hot weather in bread that is not sufficiently 
fermented or not well baked. To make this point clearer, 
I might say that during extremely hot weather, especially 
on humid days, a dough heats up more than ordinarily 
during fermentation. Furthermore, the humidity lends 
the dough an additional amount of heat, which hastens 
fermentation with the results that the expansion of the 
same weight of carbonic acid gas is greater than on a cooler 
and less humid day. As this gas, which is necessarily 
produced during fermentation, is enveloped in a dough of 
higher temperature, it expands to a greater extent than its 
natural volume. In a word the dough becomes light 
without being ripe. When the baker turns a dough in this 
condition of immaturity, the bread will have a tendency 
to color too rapidly during baking, and consequently will, 
as a rule, be withdrawn from the oven without being suffi- 
ciently baked and containing too large an amount of 
moisture. Naturally it is also low in acidity and such a 
loaf, insufficiently fermented and insufficiently baked is 
most readily attacked by ropy germs. Too hot an oven 
would also have a tendency to bring about a similar con- 
dition. In all such cases I noted a premature mould 
appearing on the loaves as early as twenty-four hours 
after bakings — before rope had developed. The percentage 
of acidity in a dough controls the premature moulding of 
bread as well as the development of rope. 



47 



Before bread can be ropy the germs or spores must be 
present in large quantities so as to have an opportunity to 
thrive and develop in the dough during fermentation. 
This proves that a bakery must be thoroughly infected 
with the germs or spores before rope can be developed in 
the bread. 

Rope causes fine silvery threads in bread, which appear 
when the loaf is broken apart. Characteristics that accom- 
pany it are soft, wet, sticky and clammy crumb, a sort of 
foxy colored exterior, immature crust and a repelling odor. 
These characteristics are not present during the early 
stages and frequently do not develop until some twenty- 
four hours after the bread is baked. 

The treatment for this dreaded disease is divided into 
two parts: 

1st — Direct application to arrest the difficulty. 

2nd — Sanitary measures to kill the germs and insure 
against a recurrence of the trouble. 

The first part, arresting the disease, we will now discuss. 
I have had a good many cases under my care and treated 
them first by the direct application of organic acid, obtain- 
ing remarkably good results. I began by using lactic 
acid U. S. P. "Merck," one-tenth of one per cent of the 
weight of flour employed in doughing; that is one and six- 
tenths ounces of lactic acid for each 100 lbs. of flour used. 
I allowed the dough to ferment one-half hour longer than 
usual and by this method secured a loaf that did not differ 
materially from the regular bread to which the trade had 
been accustomed. I consider this very important. 

The next step was to see that all stale returns of bread 
(manufactured before using lactic acid) were strictly kept 



48 



from the premises. These return loaves were burned or 
destroyed absolutely in some other way. 

We then proceeded to clean the bakery and utensils by 
whitewashing or painting the walls, cleaning the floor and 
utensils either with live steam or with a hot solution of 
boracic acid. When live steam is used it must be introduced 
through a steam hose with a suitable nozzle; the pressure 
should be 90 lbs. and the nozzle should touch the utensils 
and the floor. 

After cleaning, the shop was secured air tight and 
fumigated; either by the use of 40% U. S. P. formaldehyde, 
using a 10% solution, by adding one part to nine parts of 
water and sprinkling same freely over the floors; or formal- 
dehyde candles, free from sulphur, were used to effect 
satisfactory fumigation. 

In shops where baking had to be conducted continuously 
from the beginning to the end of the week, we sprayed a 
moderate amount of formaldehyde around the bakery 
every day — as much as we could without having the fumes 
affect the workmen. A thorough fumigation was resorted 
to at the earliest opportunity the following Saturday. 

After two or three days we reduced the amount of lactic 
acid by one-third; after another week we cut down the acid 
another one-third, and continued to employ this small 
quantity for two weeks more, or until we were absolutely 
sure that no stale returns from any source could be the 
means of reinfecting the bakery. 

Do not overlook the necessity of thoroughly cleaning 
the interior of all your wagons and the importance of 
requesting your grocer customers to keep all bread boxes 
open after removal of bread, so as to give the boxes a good 
airing. 



49 



I have attempted to eliminate ropy bread by making 
the dough stiffer, using less sugar, giving the dough greater 
age, baking bread more thoroughly and cooling it rapidly. 
In addition, I applied sanitary measures by sterilizing 
utensils, whitewashing and fumigating. In a number of 
cases, excellent results were obtained in this way without 
the use of lactic acid, but other cases would not yield to this 
treatment. Probably the reason was that it is almost 
impossible to get a bakery airtight, so that by fumigation 
you will kill all the rope spores. These spores which 
produce the disease in bread must be subjected to fumiga- 
tion for eight hours, so you see how difficult it is. 

I wish to emphasize in the strongest possible terms that 
the application of lactic acid in proper proportions imme- 
diately and absolutely arrests the development of rope in 
bread. I also wish to emphasize that the necessary cleaning 
and sanitary measures must be promptly exercised to 
avoid a recurrence of the trouble. The use of lactic acid 
will not have an unfavorable result on the quality of the 
bread and the baker need have no fear about using it in 
the proper proportions. 

I fully realize that the study of rope involves many 
principles, but I wish to state once more that the applica- 
tion of organic acids is not only the quickest but the only 
safe and immediate remedy when applied in connection 
with the necessary cleansing and disinfecting measures. 

In referring to organic acids, I wish to state that lactic 
is to be preferred, but when it can not be obtained, acetic 
acid in the form of vinegar may be applied with satis- 
factory results. When using vinegar, I employed 1% of 
90 grain vinegar to the weight of flour used in doughing. 
After two or three days application we reduced this to ^ 
of 1% and after a week to }/2 oi 1%, continuing to use this 
amount for at least two weeks more. 



50 

When vinegar is used to eliminate rope, there is bound 
to be a sour smell about the premises, but this disappears 
quickly after the baking and when vinegar is used in the 
proportions given no trace of sourness remains in the 
bread. 

The use of vinegar, however, slightly affects the bloom 
and color of the crust; there is a paleness with an inclination 
to grey, which is not found when lactic acid is used. The 
inside of the loaf when vinegar is employed is whiter than 
usual. It would be perfectly safe for a baker experiencing 
an attack of rope to rely on the immediate application of 
vinegar, if he cannot obtain lactic acid or if for the sake of 
economy he prefers to use vinegar. The cost of vinegar 
would be approximately 3 cents for every 100 lbs. of flour 
and of lactic acid 8 cents for every 100 lbs. of flour. 

I have experimented with smaller proportions of acids 
for a start and while laboratory tests show that these may 
be used, for practical purposes the proportions stated 
herein are the most satisfactory. 

It has been stated that yeast may be at fault in pro- 
pagating rope in bread. This idea was probably advanced 
before bakers knew the proper remedies for fighting rope, 
because there is no question but that organic acids, lactic 
or acetic (vinegar) will immediately check the trouble and 
all yeast has to be made in acidified media. In other words, 
yeast is manufactured in acid mashes and therefore cannot 
be infected by germs of rope. 

To sum up; when the disease asserts itself, it is necessary 
to secure either lactic acid or vinegar immediately. Add 
it to the dough in the proper proportions by diluting it in 
the bulk of the water used. Dissolve salt and yeast 
separately in part of the water, add the salt solution to the 
bulk of tiie water containing the acid, next add sugar, milk 



51 



and malt and finally the flour. Start to mix and after the 
machine is in operation for a few minutes, add the yeast. 
Allow the machine to mix for a couple of minutes more 
until the yeast has been thoroughly incorporated and then 
add the shortening. 

In connection with this treatment, I wish to call your 
attention especially to the fact that I allow the dough a 
half hour more time for fermentation when lactic acid is 
used, whereas by the use of vinegar I allow the regular 
period of time for fermentation. 

As a final precaution, I warn once more that all stale 
bread must be kept from the premises until one has the 
assurance that the disease no longer exists and is entirely 
eradicated, which fact must be corroborated by the actual 
condition of returns of stale bread. 

Further, all bread wrapped in waxed paper must be 
thoroughly cooled before being wrapped, which naturally 
requires a longer time in hot weather than in cooler weather. 
Wrapping bread too hot in airtight packages alone can be 
the cause of generating ropy bread. All bread, including 
such that is sold without being wrapped, should be so 
situated after baking as to secure a rapid and complete 
cooling before wrapping or packing. When rope in bread 
has made its appearance it is well to make the dough a 
trifle stiffer and to secure a strong fermentation, as more 
ripeness and lightness of dough is necessary to obtain the 
best results. 

Adherence to strict rules as set forth herein and ener- 
getic application to enforce the sanitary measures have 
given me immediate results in eliminating rope in bread. 
The sanitary measures are absolutely necessary, lest some 
of the spores may remain dormant about the bakery, which 
a subsequent spell of hot weather, either the same or the 



52 



following summer may again develop into a suflScient 
amount of spores to cause a recurrence and an outbreak of 
new spores; in short, then the application of organic acids 
arrests the disease immediately. The application of proper 
sanitary measures eradicates the trouble. 

The precaution against this trouble lies in making the 
doughs a trifle stiffer, allowing them to become very light 
on first rise before turning of dough by holding the ovens 
a trifle on the cool side to insure thorough baking and 
finally attend to the proper cooling of the bread before 
wrapping and packing. If this precaution if taken during 
extremely hot weather the chance for ropy bread is almost 
impossible. Remember an ounce of prevention is worth 
pounds of cure. 



FLAVOR IN BREAD. 



Bread possesses different flavors and the difference in 
flavor depends upon the amount of soluble carbohydrates 
and the quantity and especially quality of gluten contained 
in a flour. It also depends upon the process of fermenta- 
tion and general manufacture employed as well as on the 
ingredients and amount of various ingredients added to a 
dough. The most important among these ingredients are 
the amount of salt and Yeast used. 

Without a goodly amount of salt, the palate can not 
recognize the flavor; without it the bread would be insipid. 



53 

A goodly amount of salt requires a goodly amount of 
Yeast. Plenty of salt and Yeast assure best results. 

Some of the chief causes for bread lacking in flavor are : 
Insufficient salt, insufficient Yeast, or doughs that are 
carried too long or too warm, or both. 



VIENNA BREAD. 



Vienna bread differs in nearly every shop, and in many 
bakeries is far from being the genuine article. 

It is made both over the straight and sponge dough 
method. 

The proper manipulation of a Vienna dough requires a 
tight dough, about 15 pounds of flour to every gallon of 
liquid employed for doughing, plenty of good yeast, and 
approximately Yi hour's more time in fermentation than 
would be required for pan bread. 

It is also indispensable to have a good supply of steam 
for the oven. 

It was the carefulness of the Vienna baker, together with 
the good material employed, that gave him his fame, and 
not the addition of milk in bread, as some bakers seem to 
believe. It is mostly due to the care taken that gives 
Vienna bread its quality. 



54 



HOME-MADE BREAD COMPARED WITH 
BAKERS' BREAD. 



The name "Home-made" bread does not merely refer to 
bread made by the housekeeper, but it is also the name for 
a bread which a baker strives to make a perfect loaf as 
similar as possible to the home-made loaf. The bakers' 
bread, therefore, generally is divided into three classes, 
namely, water-bread, milk-bread and home-made bread. 

The w ater-bread has more crust than the others, because 
it is largely the crust of this bread that gives it its flavor. 

The Vienna bread is made with and without milk, and 
should never be made of an over-ripe dough. Its crust 
should be thin and crisp and the grain fine and close, and, if 
broken apart, should be flaky. 

The home-made bread is either made with or without 
milk. More or less shortening is used in different bakeries, 
and sometimes white Indian meal, previously scalded, is 
added to get more moisture and a closer grain to the loaf. 
The main part in home-made bread, therefore, is not its 
whiteness and lightness, but its flavor, grain and the par- 
ticular shape of the loaf to meet the demands of the trade. 

This can be accomplished in several ways; one is the 
addition of Indian meal, which should be previously scalded 
by pouring the same into boiling water over the fire, and stir 
until scalded dry. Then take it off and add a small amount 
of lard, allow to cool off, dilute with water, and rub through 
a sieve before adding to the dough. Another way is to make 
a stiff dough and not give the bread too much proof before 
baking. 

It can also be made of a regular dough, by taking a piece 



55 



of plain dough before it gets full proof, mould into loaves 
and bake off when double original size. 

Therefore, it can be seen that home-made bread in itself 
has no degree of perfectness over a rightly made baker's 
bread, but is merely made to meet a demand of such who 
do not believe in a light and flaky loaf of bread. 



BAKERS' MACHINERY. 



The motive power should be first considered. It is my 
belief that electric motors are most practical, as they are 
always ready and require no special trained man. If belt- 
driven machinery is used, it is well to remember that a long 
drive (that is, a long belt) will better grip a pulley and pre- 
vent slipping. The power which a belt can transmit is pro- 
portionate to the speed at which it travels. To double the 
belt speed will double the capacity for conveying power. 

The next machine of importance is the flour sifter. The 
important point in connection with this machine is, "sift 
your flour directly before mixing of the dough." 

The mixing machine should be one that gives the dough 
a good deal of agitation, and the advantages derived from 
proper mixing are increased yield, more whiteness and better 
bread. (See yield.) 

Likewise, the machine loaf divider, rounding-up ma- 
chines, moulders and conveyors have long ago evolved from 
the experimental stage and have proven a complete success. 



56 



The large variety of machines on the market today makes 
it possible that all bakers interested in the use of machinery 
can be satisfied; they only have to study the suitability of 
their own case. 

The proper use of machinery results in economy in labor, 
by creating more system, economy in manufacture, by in- 
creased yield and better bread of more whiteness of the 
crumb and more nutritious bread, by shortening the time 
necessary for fermentation. 



HOLES IN BREAD. 



Large holes in bread are caused through irregular fer- 
mentation. All bread will contain some holes, and the dif- 
ference in this respect constitutes the grain of the bread. 
A loaf made of a young dough will have a closer grain than 
one made of a stronger fermentation. 

The grain and texture of a loaf, therefore, is partially 
regulated by the temperature of dough, length of fermenta- 
tion and amount of salt used. 

But there is a limit. As soon as a fermentation passes 
a certain point, the acid contents of the dough will affect 
the holes in the bread, sometimes cutting and softening 
parts of the gluten, and thus cause large holes. This, how- 
ever, is not the only cause. Bad workmanship, and, as 
before stated, improper fermentation, often caused through 
poor yeast, defects in dough-making and moulding of loaves 
being among them. 



57 



The expansion of unevenly distributed gas and particles 
of undeveloped gluten is mostly the cause. The former is 
usually caused through poor moulding by inexperienced 
bakers, or a dough is too tightly moulded after having too 
much proof. 

The undissolved gluten is caused by either a poor fer- 
ment, by the use of poor yeast or too high a temperature of 
dough, which causes too much acidity in the dough. The 
heat of the oven is also very important. 

In sponge bread the large holes are most numerous and 
often caused through the sponge not being properly broken 
down and the dough being poorly mixed. 

Again, some bakers dust too much flour during the pro- 
cess of moulding, and this often causes the ruin of loaves 
through large holes. 

Again, by the use of moulding machines, which have been 
in use for a long time, so that the rollers were considerably 
worn, I have noticed that the loaves would not curl up prop- 
erly, and have traced the cause of large holes to this source. 

Flour that has been in damp storage, or flour that has 
been exposed too long to a temperature below the freezing 
point, may also be the cause of large holes in bread. 

The salt is another important factor, as improperly dis- 
solved particles can be the cause as well. 

There exists many conflicting opinions, simply because 
it is a rather difficult matter to correct the evil of "large 
holes." 

I would recommend a softer dough; in fact, as soft as 
it can be handled to advantage; a cool fermentation, 4 



58 



ounces of salt to the gallon of liquid and sufficient yeast to 
bring the dough in time to the bench without prolonging 
the process of fermentation, and finally more malt extract 
in place of sugar and a goodly quantity of a well-refined oil. 



EXPANSION OF THE LOAF. 



The size of the loaf of bread is regulated by the re- 
spective age given to the dough. If you want a close- 
grained, medium-sized loaf of bread, scale your dough 
immediately after the second rise; if a larger loaf is desired, 
give your dough }/2 hour more time after second turn. This 
refers to plain bread. In home-made and Vienna bread, 
the dough may be allowed to rest Y2 hour longer after the 
"third" rise, providing a larger loaf is desired. 

The respective time for a dough to acquire its necessary 
proof for the "first, second and third" rise, is as follows: 

First rise 3 to 3 J^ hours. 

Second rise 1 to V/i hours. 

Third rise ^ to 1 hour. 

Total time 4^ to 6 hours. 

According to w^armth of dough and shop; also amount 
of yeast used. 

The straight-dough method is the easiest and safest way 
of making the very best bread. 



59 
MILK BREAD. 



A Spring patent of medium strength or a blend resem- 
bling the same, is best adapted to this class of bread, as in 
too strong a flour, with too much fermentation, also part of 
the ingredients added would be consumed. 

This bread is made with both the sponge and straight 
dough system. For loaf bread a young sponge is required, 
and the straight dough handled equally young. For milk 
rolls, which require a larger expansion, especially rolls baked 
on the oven sole, like "German Coffee Rolls," a stronger 
fermentation must be made. A sponge for the latter should 
have the second rise, and taken before it recedes the second 
time. For young sponges, milk can be used to advantage in 
the sponge, while for milk rolls, unless all milk is used, it is 
best to use it in the dough. The reason for this is that less 
sugar can be employed and the same rich color given to the 
rolls. What the color has to do with the flavor of small 
bread, every baker knows. It is always safer to scald the 
milk before use, and then allow it to cool off. 



RIPENESS OF SPONGE, SPONGE DOUGH AND 
STRAIGHT DOUGH. 



A sponge set at the average stiffness should be ready 
for its first drop in from 3 to 4 hours, according to tempera- 
ture in shop and strength of flour used. After the sponge 
commences to recede, it will take on the average half an 
hour before it has dropped back and commences to rise 
again. From this stage it will require another half hour 



60 

before it will be ready for the second drop. Therefore, a 
sponge ready for its first drop, will require one more hour 
to get ready for the second drop. 

In straight dough, the age to the dough is given by 
allowing it to rest from 3 to 33^ hours, or until light enough 
so that it will recede if touched by the hand. Then lay 
your dough together, allow to rise again, but not quite as 
high as first time, about 3 inches less. Lay over again, and 
proceed to scale for plain bread. 

For richer doughs, where more ingredients, as sugar and 
fat are added, allow doughs to get proof the third time, lay 
over once more, and 15 minutes thereafter it is ready for 
the bench. 

The proper amount of space to give a straight dough in 
dough trough for full development is 7 cubic feet for every 
100 pounds of flour used for doughing. 



YEAST-RAISED CAKES. 



In making yeast-raised cakes, the raw material employed, 
both in quality and quantity, is a very important point. 

To begin with the flour, the richer the cake the softer 
should be the gluten contained in the flour. 

It is a well-known fact that the softer the dough for 
sweet goods the richer they will be after baking. There- 
fore, the stiffness of the dough must be regulated with the 
strength of the flour, A soft Winter wheat patent, one very 
fine in quality of milling, will give very good results. A 
stiffer dough, one more easily handled, can be made by the 
use of such a flour than if a blend containing Spring wheat 
flour is used. 



61 



Of course, there are different kinds of sweet cakes, and 
in such as American tea and coffee cakes, large expansion is 
often wanted. Then stronger flour must be added. But 
just as the percentage of strong flour is increased, so the 
shortening materials, such as eggs, butter, lard and sugar, 
must also be added in the same proportion, to overcome 
the effects of the strong flour upon the richness of the cake. 

Sweet cakes are governed by a directly opposite rule 
from that which governs the bread-making, and this in 
direct proportion to the richness of the cake. The bread 
baker selects flours which shall absorb the greatest quantity 
of water, together with a due regard to quality, and this 
because flour is his most expensive ingredient. 

In the manufacture of cakes it is the opposite, because 
in rich cakes, flour is about the cheapest substance, and is 
apt to increase the cost of manufacture if it is too strong. 
This is because the wetting up is not done by water, but 
partially by milk and the other parts in some cakes alto- 
gether by fats, eggs and such other materials which may be 
employed. Strong flours, which absorb large quantities 
of water, will also absorb a large quantity of eggs, and since 
an egg itself is a binding material in the manufacture of 
dough, it is for this reason that strong flour has little 
advantage to be used in cakes. 

If strong flour is used alone, it will always make a drier 
cake, with same proportion of enriching ingredients, and 
lacks the mellowness of a cake made of a soft Winter patent. 

The next point for consideration in the manufacture of 
fermented cakes is the yeast. Little need be said concern- 
ing this, as the nature and properties of yeast in fermenting 
dough have been fully explained, so that it is only necessary 
to remind the reader that more yeast is used for cakes than 
for bread. 

A remarkable fact, and one which no first-class cake 



(5-2 



baker will refute, is that, in shops where other yeast is 
eniployeJ. Fleisehiuaim's Coiuiiressed Yeast is always used 
for the richest eakes. and. while some of the other yeasts 
sometimes make good bread, they often prove a failure 
when used for a rieh dough. 1 wish to make the point 
very strong to the reader that the following recipes, especi- 
ally in the manufacture of cakes, must be worked with 
Fleischmann's Compressed Yeast, as 1 would not wish to 
have the correctness of the recipes criticised through 
failure caused by the use of other yeasts. 

The anunint of compressed yeast for sweet cakes is from 
^ J ounce to -i ounces per quart of liquid, and, therefore, is 
regulated by the richness of the dough. All sweet doughs 
should be made and handled as soft as possible to improve 
the quality of the cake. 

With reference to eggs, everyone knows that when 
properly used, they improve the lightness of the cake, and, 
therefore, act in two ways upon the quality of the dough. 
The other effect they have, besides improving the richness 
of the cake, is their binding qualities, and in this respect 
it can be tigured that, unless a larger amount of shortening 
is used, one egg possesses the binding quality of l^o ounces 
of tlour. Therefore, the recipe calling, for instance, for -4 
eggs to the pound of tiour. and if it is the desire to make 
this cake richer, the amount of eggs can be doubled, and 
then, accordingly, t^ ounces less tlour be used. This would 
bring the result that only 10 ounces of Hour would be used 
to the 8 eggs, which represent nearly a pint of liquid and 
naturally make a very soft dough; but the result will be, 
also, a very rich cake. This refers to the cake where no 
milk or water is used for doughing. 

If milk is used and a larger amount in liquid measure- 
ment than eggs, only one ounce of Hour should be reduced 



63 



from the original umount for each additional egj^. For very 
rich cakes the white of the eggs should always be beaten to 
a froth, and when light, one ounce of each pound of sugar 
beaten into it thoroughly. The butter or lard is creamed 
with the rest of the sugar, and, when very light, the yolks, 
OIK! by one, added, (ireat care must be taken that neither 
the whites of the eggs nor the shortening with th(; yolks 
griddles, and should this hapi>en, it is better to save this 
mixture for some cheaper cakes, where it is of less import- 
ance. The safest way to prevent the griddling of the in- 
gredients is to have them as cold as possible, and in very hot 
weather, set the mixing l>owl into another larger one con- 
taining ice water. If butter is used instead of lard, it will 
not only improve the richness of the cake, but also its light- 
ness. Butter itself has a lightening tendency when used in 
cakes, while lard alone has only a shortening tendency. 
The amount of sugar used, on the average, in all sweet cakes, 
should not be more than 25% of the weight of the flour; 
that is to say, 12 ounces to each quart of milk or liquid. If 
eggs are used alone, comparatively less sugar is employed, 
since too much sugar has the tendency to make the cake 
heavy, and if a sweeter cake is desired, naturally more yeast 
must be used. 

Salt is used in proportion to the richness of the cake. 
For sweet dough in which milk is used predominantly, two- 
thirds of an ounce of salt may be used to each quart of milk, 
while in a dough w'here no milk is used, but eggs alone for 
wetting, a proportionate less amount of salt is employed. 
No general rule can be given for this, as it depends a good 
deal upon the quality of the cake. 

Yeast-raised cakes naturally require a slower oven 
than bread, and the heat of the oven is regulated according 
to the richness of the dough. 

The most difficult thing is to incorporate the sugar 



64 



shortening and eggs witli the sponge, which should be 
hfted in very light and not beaten in. 



GLUTEN FLOUR. 



Gluten flour is a product made from white wheat flour, 
and its value for bread to serve in the case of persons 
suffering from diabetes, depends whether or not it is free 
from starch. 

A good gluten flour sometimes can be obtained from 
starch factories, where the remaining gluten is dried and 
then powdered. 

A good way to obtain a reliable gluten bread is by the 
following process: 

Take white wheat flour, make into a stiff dough, using 
only water. Allow this dough to rest, submerged in water 
for about one hour. Next place the dough into a muslin 
bag, and wash under a stream of water until the washings 
are no longer milky and the water runs off clear. 

Allow this gluten to lay in water over night, which 
softens the gluten, and makes it possible to add in the 
morning the necessary salt, a little bran or ground almonds, 
and a moderate quantity of egg. Add a small proportion 
of Compressed Yeast, allow the dough to ferment until 
light, then pan, and when double original size, bake in 
brisk oven. 



65 
MEASURES. 



The attention of bakers in Canada is called to the 
difference between the Imperial Measure, commonly used 
in Canada, and the Wine Measure, used in the United 
States. 

The Imperial Gallon is equal to 1 1-5 gallons. Wine 
Measure. 

All recipes in this Treatise are based on the Wine 
Measure. Bakers using the Imperial Measure must 
adjust their calculations to the Wine Measure by sub- 
tracting one-sixth of Imperial Measure for every gallon 
specified in recipes. 



(i(> 



PART II. 

n 

RECIPES 



GENERAL HINTS. 



Be careful in the selection of flour. The best is the 
cheapest. 

In winter it is always well to store flour for immediate 
use where it can not get chilled. 

Doughs and sponges should always be mixed well. Use 
as little flour as possible in kneading and moulding of dough. 

Never stop kneading dough or mixing sponge, as it will 
often cause lumps in bread. 

Always weigh the ingredients, especially salt, to obtain 
uniformity. 

Never dissolve compressed yeast in water more than 
lukewarm, as hot water will kill the yeast. 

A little more salt should be used in warm weather than 
in cold. 

Cold and salt retard fermentation; heat hastens it. 

Salt neutralizes the acidity in the dough. 

Sugar hastens fermentation, if used in small proportions. 



67 

PLAIN BREAD— Pan Loaves. 

196 lbs. (1 bbl.) flour. 

!2 lbs. Fleischmann's Yeast. 
3 lbs. salt. 

3 lbs. sugar (better use half malt extract) . 
2 lbs. lard. 
60 to 64 quarts of water. (See page 44). 
This bread is best made over the Straight-dough method. 
Dissolve the salt and yeast separately in part of the 
water, add the salt solution to the bulk of the water, then 
add sugar, and next the flour. Start to mix, and after ma- 
chine is in operation, add the yeast. Continue to mix for 
several minutes, then add the lard or other shortening that 
may be used in place of it. Mix dough thoroughly for 15 
or 20 minutes. After mixing, allow to rise until it will 
recede to the touch of the hand. Lay over by pulling the 
ends and sides well in, and allow to rise again until light 
the second time. It is then ready to be scaled and formed 
into loaves. 

Allow to prove until double in size, then bake in medium 
hot oven. 

If the oven is not steam-tight, or no steam is available, 
then bread requires 23^ times original size for proper proof. 

OVEN SOLE BREAD. 

Use same ingredients as for plain bread, and give same 
age to dough. 

The dough must be made stiffer, and only 56 to 60 quarts 
of water are added to the barrel of flour. 

It is always best to round up pieces and allow to spring 
on for 10 to 15 minutes before moulding into loaves. A 
good supply of steam in oven will greatly improve this kind 
of bread. 



68 



HOME-MADE BREAD. 

196 lbs. flour (1 bbl.) 

2 lbs. Fleischmann's Yeast. 

43^2 to 6 lbs. sugar (better use Yl malt extract). 
43^ to 6 lbs, lard or other shortening. 

3 lbs. salt. 

60 quarts water. 
Scaled at 17 ounces, this will make, approximately, 300 
loaves of bread. If scaled at 16 ounces, the yield will be 
about 318 loaves. 

Follow same directions as for white bread, excepting 
that your dough should be allowed to rest }/2 hour longer 
before scaling off to form into loaves. 

Bake off at short proof, and use moderate amount of 
steam in oven. 

COTTAGE BREAD. 

Make same dough as described for Home-made Bread. 

Cottage Bread is baked in round, low tins. Break the 
amount scaled for one loaf into 6 small pieces, cleave up 
same as for rolls. Set one piece in center of pan, and let 
remaining five form a circle. Allow to prove until double 
original size, and bake with moderate amount of steam in 
oven. 



QUAKER BREAD. 

Make same dough as described for Home-made Bread. 

Three pounds of dry milk powder or four pounds of 
condensed milk may be added for this class of bread. 

It is baked in a twin loaf pan, and should be placed in 
oven with rather short proof, in order to have the loaves 
burst nicely where they meet in the center. This bread re- 
quires only a moderate amount of steam for baking. 



69 
MILK BREAD No. 1. 

196 lbs. flour. ^ 33^ lbs. lard or oil. 

2^ lbs. Fleischmann's Yeast. 9H lbs. sweetened condensed milk, 
3H lbs. sugar. containing 6% butter fat. 

3^ lbs. salt. 60 quarts water. 

Dissolve the yeast in the bulk of the water, and proceed 
in the usual way in mixing of the dough. 

If the dough is made at the proper temperature, which 
is from 78 to 82° F., according to season of the year and 
shop conditions, it should be ready in 43^^ hours time for 
the fermentation, and then ready for the bench. 

The respective time for this dough to acquire its neces- 
sary proof is as follows: 

First rise 23^ hours. 

Second rise % hour. 

Third rise ^ hour. 

To bench 3^ hour. 

Total time 43/^ hours. 

Give short proof before baking, and use moderate 
amount of steam in oven. 

This makes an excellent seller, and is a very popular 
recipe with many large bakers. 



MILK BREAD No. 2. 



196 lbs. flour. 2 lbs. malt extract. 

23^ lbs. Fleischmann's Yeast. 6 lbs. sugar. 

Sy-z lbs. salt. 4 lbs. dry milk powder. 

3J^ lbs. lard or oil. 60 quarts water. 

First rise 33/2 hours. 

Second rise 1 hour. 

Third rise % hour. 

To bench 34 hour. 

Total time 53^2 hours. 

Otherwise, follow same instructions as for recipe for 
Milk Bread No. 1. This recipe is also very popular. 



70 



FRENCH BREAD. 

lf)G lbs. flour. 
56 to 58 quarts water. 
2M lbs. salt. 
13^2 lbs. malt extract. 

2 lbs. Fleischmann's Yeast. 

3 lbs. of sugar. 

Some bakers prefer the sponge method for this kind of 
bread, the larger bakers, however, mostly use the straight 
dough method. 

If sponge is used, use same proportions of water for 
sponge and dough. Allow sponge to come to second drop. 
Next mix dough, and after mixing, allow to come to full 
proof. Time, 13^ hours. Work over and allow to rise for 
30 minutes more. It is then ready for the bench. 

Straight dough, which is the simpler way, should be 
allowed to become very light at first rise; in fact, so light 
that it will sink readily to the mere touch of the hand. Lay 
dough together thoroughly, allow to get nearly as light as 
first time, twice more; it is then ready for the bench. 

The total time for fermentation of straight dough for 
French Bread is 43^2 to 5 hours. 

This bread, to be properly made, requires a good amount 
of steam for baking, and a moderately hot oven. 

The respective time for straight dough to acquire its nec- 
essary proof, is as follows: 

First rise 3 to S}4 hours. 

Second rise 1 to 13^ hours. 

Third rise 3^ hour. 

Total time 43^ to 5 hours. 



71 

SANDWICH BREAD. 

196 lbs. flour. 

54 quarts water. (See page 44). 
6 lbs. sugar. 
2 lbs. malt extract. 
4 lbs. oil or other shortening. 
3K lbs. salt. 

2 lbs. Fleischmann's Yeast. 

2 lbs. milk powder, or 3 lbs. condensed milk 
(optional). 

Sandwich, or Pullman Bread, sometimes also called 
Restaurant Bread, is best made by holding the dough rather 
tight. The above formula makes a very rich sandwich 
loaf. This dough requires more time than ordinary bread, 
as it carries extra salt. Make dough from 78° to 82° F., 
according to season of the year. 

As they are placed in covered tins, extra precaution 
must prevail not to overproof them. The proper proof is 
about one inch from top of pan. 

The respective time for straight dough to acquire its 
necessary proof is: 

First rise 3i^ to S}4 hours. 

Second rise 1 to 13^ hours. 

Third rise ^ ^ hour. 

To bench J^ 3^ hour. 

Total time 5}/2 to 6 hours. 

Sandwich Bread, to be right, should toast very readily, 
and toast made therefrom should eat short. The grain of 
the loaf should be very close. 

In some bakeries. Sandwich Bread is made from the 
regular run of straight dough, in some cases even from the 
Vienna dough. To be right, however, it should be made 
over a special dough. 



72 



VIENNA BREAD. 

196 lbs. flour. 
54 quarts water. 
2 lbs. Fleischmann's Yeast. 
2 lbs. malt extract. 
2 lbs. sugar. 

4 to 8 lbs. lard or other shortening. 
2^ lbs. salt. 

The respective time for straight dough to acquire its 
necessary proof, is as follows: 

First rise 3}4 hours. 

Second rise 1 hour. 

Third rise ^ hour. 

To bench 3^ hour. 

Total time 53/2 hours. 

When dough is ready, proceed to scale into required size, 
and be sure to round up the pieces and allow to rest from 
10 to 15 minutes before shaping into Vienna loaves. Lay 
the loaves smooth side down on cloth-covered boards, pinch 
up the cloth betvveen loaves, and allow to rest until double 
in size; then bake with plenty of steam in oven. Oven 
should be about 20 degrees cooler than for pan bread. 

Many larger bakers make up the Vienna bread with the 
moulding machine, which naturally saves a lot of labor. 

In place of the cloth-covered boards, some bakers use 
boxes, heavily dusted with white or yellow cornmeal. In 
this case care must be exercised not to set the loaves too 
close together so they will touch when they reach their 
j)roof. 

If boxes are used, the loaves must be laid smooth side up. 



73 
ENTIRE WHEAT BREAD. 

150 lbs. entire wheat flour. 
46 lbs. white patent flour. 
56 quarts water. 

S}4 lbs. salt. 

5 lbs. molasses. 

1 lb. sugar. 

1 lb. malt extract. 

2 lbs. Fleischmann's Yeast. 
33^ lbs. lard or other shortening. 

The directions for this bread are exactly the same as 
given for Home-made Bread, page 68. 

In some localities, the use of molasses is not desirable, 
although it lends this bread a very delicious flavor. In that 
case, 4 lbs. additional sugar may be used in place of the 
molasses. 

Dough made of entire wheat flour ages more readily. 
The white patent flour is added to make a better appearing 
loaf. 

Sometimes entire wheat flour is made of softer wheats. 
In that case, more patent flour must be added, or at least 
half of the amount of flour used. 

Bake off with short proof, and use very little steam in 
oven. 



CREAM BREAD. 

This bread may be made from any of the foregoing 
recipes for white bread. It is baked in round crimped and 
covered pans. Be careful not to overproof, as it will spoil 
the appearance of the loaf. The proper proof is to let the 
loaves rise until pans are two-thirds full. 



74 



GRAHAM BREAD. 

98 lbs. white patent flour. 
98 lbs. graham flour. 
56 quarts water. 

3 lbs. salt. 

5 lbs. molasses. 

1 lb. sugar. 

1 lb. malt extract. 

2 lbs. Fleischmann's Yeast. 

33^2 lbs. lard or other shortening. 

The directions for this bread are exactly the same as 
for Entire Wheat Bread. 



BOSTON BROWN BREAD. 

25 quarts water. 

20 lbs. rye flour. 

20 lbs. yellow cornmeal. 

20 lbs. graham flour. 

Yi lb. Fleischmann's Yeast. 

1 lb. salt. 

1 lb. sugar. 

1 lb. lard. 

6 lbs. molasses {Yi Porto Rico and Y2 New 
Orleans) . 

1 lb. baking soda. 

Mix the two flours with the cornmeal, and set sponge to 
be 84° F., directly after mixing. Use the Yi pound of yeast 
and 12 quarts of water for sponge, adding sufficient of the 
mixed flour to set a soft sponge. Allow to ferment for XYi 
hours. 

Next add sugar, salt and molasses dissolved prior in the 
remaining VV/i quarts water, next add the lard. Mix the 
baking soda well with the remaining flour, and after the 



75 



sponge is thoroughly broken down with the liquid, add the 
flour, and proceed to mix until smooth. 

Grease brown bread moulds well, then fill half full, and 
steam for 5 hours. Allow to cool, and pack in waxed paper. 

RYE BLEND. 

The Rye Blend is made by mixing the proportioned 
amount of rye flour with baker's straight. Some bakers, in 
order to get a nice bloom on the bread, add a small percent- 
age of patent flour to the Rye Blend. 

The Rye Blend is usually made by mixing from 25% to 
33% of rye flour with baker's straight. 

The exact amount of rye flour used depends on local 
conditions and the character of the bread desired. Each 
baker, therefore, must judge for himself as to the proper 
proportions of his blend. 

RYE BREAD. 
Sponge Method. 

Set sponge, using: 

30 quarts water. 
90 lbs. flour, "Rye Blend." 
1 lb. Fleischmann's Yeast. 
Allow sponge to ferment until 3^ hour after it com- 
mences to recede. The temperature of the sponge directly 
after mixing should be from 78° to 82° F., which should be 
regulated according to the season of the year and conditions 
of the shop. 

If temperature of shop is normal, this sponge will be 
ready in 33^ hours. 

Dough. 

28 to 30 quarts water. (See page 44). 

3^ lbs. salt. 
106 lbs. flour "Rye Blend." 
After mixing, allow dough to get full proof; lay over 



76 



and allow to rise from 3^ to ^ hour more. It is then ready 
for the bench. After being formed into loaves, they should 
be handled same way as described for Vienna Bread. (See 
page 72). 

It will take a sponge dough approximately 134 hours to 
get its first full proof. 

The sponge is apt to heat several degrees during fer- 
mentation, especially during the hot season of the year. It 
is, therefore, necessary to take the water for doughing ac- 
cordingly cooler. Each, the sponge and dough made there- 
after should have the same temperature directly after 
mixing. 



RYE BREAD. 

Straight Dough Method. 

196 lbs. flour "Rye Blend." 
58 to 60 quarts water. (See page 44). 
33^ lbs. salt. 

2 lbs. Fleischmann's Yeast. 
Allow dough, after it has been thoroughly mixed, to get 
full proof twice. It is then ready to be scaled and formed 
into loaves. Place loaves on cloth-covered boards, or set 
in dusted boxes, same as described for Vienna Bread. (See 
page 72), 

The respective time for straight rye dough to acquire its 
necessary proof, is as follows: 

First rise 3 to 3^^ hours. 

Second rise 1 to 13<4 hours. 

Total time 4 to 43^ hours. 

This bread is best baked off with a good supply of steam 
for oven during baking. Where no steam is available, it 
can be brushed over with water before being placed in oven 



77 



and again directly after baking, that is, the moment it is 
drawn from the oven. 

The size of the loaf can be regulated by giving the dough 
more or respectively less age. More time for fermentation 
means a larger loaf of bread. 

RYE BREAD. 

Double Sponge Method. 

196 lbs. flour "Rye Blend." 
60 quarts water. 
1 lb. Fleischmann's Yeast. 
S% lbs. salt. 

Set sponge with 12 ounces Fleischmann's Yeast, 15 
quarts water and 40 pounds flour. Allow to rest 3 hours, at 
which lime it should have about 2 inches drop. 

Then add 30 quarts water, together with the remaining 
4 ounces yeast; break sponge down fine, and add 80 pounds 
more flour. Allow to rest and rise until it breaks in the 
middle, or, in other words, until it commences to recede, 
which will require 2 hours. Now lift on the remaining 15 
quarts of water, in which previously dissolve the salt, and 
with it break down sponge very fine. Next add the remain- 
ing 76 lbs. flour, and mix dough thoroughly. 

Allow this dough to rest no longer than 3^^ hour, when 
it must be made up quickly. It will require proof for oven 
very rapidly. Where larger batches are required, it is better 
to m.ix this kind in halves. If this dough lays too long 
before going to the oven, it will burst the loaves in the oven. 

Time for scaling until this bread is ready for the oven, 
approximately 45 minutes. 

After forming the dough into loaves, proceed the same 
as described under recipes for Rye Bread, under caption, 
"Sponge Method." 

Both sponges and dough should have a temperature of 



78 



78° to 82° F., directly after mixing, which temperature 
should be regulated according to the season of the year and 
shop conditions. 

RAISIN BREAD. 

196 lbs. flour. 
60 quarts water. 

3 lbs. salt. 

%}/2 lbs. Fleischmann's Yeast. 

5]/2 lbs. sugar. 

2 lbs. malt extract. 

43^ lbs. lard or other shortening. 

l]^ to 20 lbs. raisins. 
Place the raisins the evening before into a suitable re- 
ceptacle, and put enough water on them to cover. The next 
morning make a straight dough in the regular way, adding 
the raisins shortly before the dough is finished mixing. 
Handle dough same as described for Home-made Bread. 
(See page 68). When dough is ready, shape into desired 
loaves. One may then proceed in the regular way of general 
baking. 

The amount of raisins used generally depends somewhat 
upon the price at which they can be purchased. 

By laying the raisins in water over night, the yield is 
materially increased; also the bread will remain fresh for a 
considerably longer period of time. 

CONCORD BREAD. 

2 quarts milk. 

4 ounces lard. 
]/2 ounce salt. 

2 ounces Fleischmann's Yeast. 
1 ounce sugar. 
Dissolve the yeast and the sugar in the milk; add suf- 
ficient flour to make medium stiff sponge, which should be 



79 



ready in about 2 hours, or when it has risen and begins 
to drop back. 

Add the rest of the ingredients and flour to make 
medium stiff dough. Let rise again 45 minutes, place in 
pans, give full proof, and bake in medium hot oven. 

PULLED BREAD. 

To be made with either "Concord" or "Vienna" bread 
dough. 

Break off into 3 ounce pieces, roll into balls, and let rise 
15 minutes. Roll these parts on a well-greased bench into 
straight, even lengths. Press six of these strands together 
at one end, and weave them into a braid to form one loaf. 

Set these loaves two inches apart in a baking sheet, 
with high rims, greasing between loaves; let rise until light, 
then bake same as bread. 

When baked, allow to cool. It is then ready to be 
pulled apart. It will come apart in long, slender strips of 
which it was composed before it was baked; put these 
strips on a baking pan, and set in a hot oven for 15 minutes, 
when they should be quite crisp and well-colored. 

They are nice served with morning coffee. 

PLAIN ROLLS "Sponge System." 

Ingredients used: 

20 quarts of water. 
5 pounds of sugar. 

1 pound milk powder (or l}4 pounds condensed 
milk). 
10 ounces malt extract. 
12J^ ounces salt. 
5 pounds lard. 

1 pound Fleischmann's Yeast. 
Directions : 
Dissolve the Yeast in 12 quarts of water and with this 



80 



set a sponge of medium stiffness, at a temperature of 80° F. 
Allow this sponge to come to second drop. 

Time about three hours. 

Dissolve the sugar and salt in the remaining 8 quarts of 
water, add to the sponge. Likewise the lard, milk and 
malt extract, and proceed to break sponge down fine. 
Next add sufficient flour to make a stiff dough. Allow to 
rise until full proof, cut dough over and lay dry, by dusting 
lightly with flour before knocking down. Then allow to 
rest 45 minutes more. When ready, mould into round balls, 
setting them in dusted proof boxes. Allow to rest for 20 
minutes more; then, with a ^-inch rolling-pin, press down 
in the middle; set on baking sheets previously greased, 
allowing about three inches in width and four inches in 
length for each roll. Allow to rise until double in size, then 
brush over lightly with a solution of egg water, and bake 
in brisk heat and a steam-tight oven. These rolls can also 
be baked on the oven bottom, and in this case proceed as 
described for German rolls. 

PLAIN ROLLS— Straight Dough. 

This is the simpler, safer and easier way of making 
good rolls. 

Dissolve the Yeast and salt separately in part of the 
water, add the salt solution to the bulk of the water, then 
add sugar, malt and milk, and next the flour. Start to 
mix, and after machine is in operation add the Yeast. 
Continue to mix for several minutes then add the lard. 

The respective time for this dough to acquire its neces- 
sary proof is as follows: 

First rise 3}^ hours. 

Second rise 1 hour. 

Third rise ^ hour. 

To bench 3^ hour. 

Total time 5}/2 hours. 

Otherwise follow same instructions as for recipe for 
"Plain Rolls, Sponge Method." 



81 



TURN-OVER ROLLS. 

Take plain roll dough, but instead of pressing the 
roUing-pin straight down, give it a half turn. Grease the 
inside of one part of roll with melted lard, and lap over the 
othei*, pressing the two parts lightly together; then place 
on slightly greased baking sheets a little apart, and allow 
to prove until double original size. Then bake in brisk, 
steam-tight oven. Brush over with water as removed from 
the oven. 



FRENCH ROLLS. 

Take plain water-bread dough, mould into round balls 
and set into dust-proof boxes. Allow to rest for 15 minutes, 
and then form into finger shapes. Lay them, smooth side 
down on cloth-covered boards, and allow to rise until 
double in size. Place them on peel far enough apart so 
that they will not touch during baking; brush over with 
a light solution of egg water, then, with a sharp knife, cut 
the whole length half through the thickness of the roll, and 
bake them on oven sole. These rolls need a hot oven. 



GERMAN DOUBLE ROLLS. 

Same as German water rolls, but set two rolls very 
close together when placing on board, the split forming 
one straight line; then proceed the same as for German 
water rolls. 



SOUP STICK. 

Take plain water-bread dough and roll out the thickness 
of a lead pencil, and lay on greased baking sheets. Allow 
to get full proof; then bake in steam-tight oven until very 
crisp. 



82 



VIENNA ROLLS. 
Take plain roll dough and mould into small round balls, 
lay them in slightly dusted proof boxes, and allow to rest 
for 15 minutes. Then roll them out into ovals about twice 
the length of their thickness. Place on greased baking 
sheets, brush over with egg water, and cut half the length 
of the roll. Allow to rise until double original size, then 
bake in steam-tight oven. 



CRESCENT ROLLS. 

Take plain roll dough, adding 2 pounds of extra butter 
to dough. Roll dough into round balls, the same as for 
rolls, allow to rest for 20 minutes, then, with a rolling-pin, 
roll into very thin sheets. Brush off all the flour carefully, 
then roll up very tight, about 6 inches long. The end of 
the dough must come in the middle of the roll; lay on 
greased baking sheets and into crescent shapes, taking care 
to have the end of the dough on top and in the middle of 
the roll. Brush off with egg water, and give full proof, 
then bake off in medium hot oven, and, after baking, brush 
off with water. 



SALT OR CARAWAY SEED ROLLS. 

The same as for crescent rolls, but should be baked in 
straight form. 

They can be made either out of j)lain water roll dough 
or plain roll dough. If made out of water dough they 
should be baked on the oven bottom. Before baking, 
brush over with egg water, sprinkle with salt, caraway 
seed, or both. Bake until crisp. 



83 



GERMAN WATER ROLLS. 

Take plain water-bread dough and proceed the same 
as described for plain rolls, only instead of placing and 
baking them on baking sheets, lay on cloth-covered boards 
or boxes, the split of rolls downward, setting the rolls in 
a row on the board, having the split lay with the width of 
the board. Pinch cloth up between rows of rolls, and when 
the board is filled, cover carefully. 

Allow to rise until double in size; then bake on oven 
sole in steam-tight oven. To get a nice gloss on these 
rolls, it is necessary to have steam in oven before the rolls 
are put in. 

KAISER SEMMEL. 

Ingredients used: 
10 quarts milk. 
10 quarts water. 
1 lb. salt. 
13^2 lbs. sugar. 
l}4 lbs. lard. 

1 lb. Fleischmann's Yeast. 
Set sponge with the water and Yeast. The sponge 
should be soft, using about two pounds of flour to a quart 
of water. 

As soon as sponge commences to break, before receding 
add the milk and other ingredients and make a medium 
stiff dough. The average temperature of the dough should 
be about 76 degrees F. 

Allow dough to get full proof, then knock down well, 
allow to rest for another half hour, or until it has again 
2-3 of its full proof, knock down again and allow to rest 
for 20 minutes more. Roll into small round balls, the same 
as for rolls, allow to prove for 15 to SO minutes, according 
to temperature, then make up into proper shapes. The 



84 



forming of Kaiser semmels takes considerable practice, and 
great care must be taken in the forming of these rolls. 
If dough is young, dust the balls with Rye Flour, before 
making up semmels. 

VIENNA KIPFEL. 

Take plain milk bread dough and add 10% of the 
weight of dough in butter; that is to say, for each 10 
pounds of dough add 1 pound of butter. 

After the addition of the butter, allow the dough to get 
full proof, then proceed the same as for crescent rolls, but 
roll looser. 

Before baking, wash over with egg water and bake in 
medium hot oven, 

PARKER HOUSE ROLLS. 

Ingredients used: 
1 quart milk. 

1 ounce sugar. 
3^ ounce salt. 

2 ounces butter, 

1 ounce lard. 
5 egg yolks. 

2 ounces Fleischmann's Yeast. 

Make straight dough out of the above ingredients and 
allow dough to get full proof, knock down and allow to 
prove again to full proof. 

After knocking down the second time roll up into 
small round balls, allow to rest for 15 minutes. Then roll 
into oval shapes and place on previously greased baking 
sheets or into Parker House roll pans. 

Allow to rise until double original size, then brush over 
with a strong solution of egg water and bake off in a 
medium hot oven. 



8r> 



LAUGEN PRETZEL. 

Set sponge with two ounces of Fleischmann's Com- 
pressed Yeast and 4 quarts water. Sponge ^y^ll be ready 
in 7 hours. 

Dissolve Y2 lb. salt in 8 quarts water, lift this on sponge, 
add 5 pounds lard and sufficient flour to make a very stift' 
dough. 

Let dough rise for 1 hour, then run it through the 
rollers several times. Break off and roll into two-ounce 
pieces, let rest 15 minutes, then form into pretzel shapes. 

Lay pretzels on boards covered with a cloth, give 
very little proof. Then put the pretzels into the boiling 
lye solution until they rise (about one minute), then place 
on peel, sprinkle with salt and put in the oven as quickly 
as possible. Bake until they are nicely browned. 

The lye solution is made with 1 ounce of caustic soda 
to two quarts boiling water, and must be kept boiling hot 
when in use. 

If solution becomes too strong from boiling down add 
more water. 

GERMAN SCHNITZ BREAD— Hutzelbrod. 

Ingredients used: 

4 oz. Fleischmann's Yeast. 

5 lbs. rye dough. 

2 lbs. seedless raisins. 
2 lbs. currants. 
1 lb. finely chopped citron, 
Yi lb. chopped orange peel. 
Gratings from 6 citrons. 
Y2 lb. chopped almonds. 
Yi lb. dates. 
Y<l pint brandy. 

1 lb. prunes. 

4 lbs. dried pears. 

2 oz. cinnamon. 



86 



3^ oz. ground cloves. 
A pinch of allspice. 

Mix the fruit and saturate with the brandy, not in- 
cluding the prunes and dried pears. 

Boil the prunes and dried pears with sufficient water 
until tender. Strain off the liquid which should be 1 
quart. Then add 1 ounce of salt to the liquid and allow 
to cool. 

When blood-warm add the four ounces of Compressed 
Yeast and dissolve the latter. Lift this on the rye dough 
and mix well. Mix the spices with the white flour to be 
added for doughing. Then make medium soft dough, 
adding the fruit and flour at the same time. 

(Use 1^2 to 3 lbs. of white flour, according to strength). 

Allow dough to rest for half hour, then scale oft' in 2 lb. 
loaves, form in round or oval shape, as desired, and place 
on baking sheets that have been previously dusted with 
flour. 

Let rise until one-third above original size and bake in 
medium hot oven. This bread, if made properly, will 
improve with age and can be kept for months. 

To store this bread, wrap in cloths and place in boxes 
or jars. 

N. B. — Only the juice of prunes and dried pears is 
used; the pulp is excluded. 

If no rye dough is on hand make a straight dough, 
using : 

2 lbs. rye flour. 

1 lb. white flour. 

3/2 ounce salt. 

1 quart water. 

1 ounce Fleischmann's Compressed Yeast. 

This dough will be ready in four hours, and in the 
meantime prepare the other ingredients to be used. 



SWEET DOUGHS. 



In making sweet doughs, always bear the following 
points in mind: 

1. Weigh the ingredients carefully, especially the salt. 

2. If water is used in place of milk, add 2 oz. more 
lard and 3 oz. more sugar to each quart of water used in the 
place of milk. 

3. The sugar and lard or butter should be rubbed into 
a creamy consistency and eggs added slowly, one by one, 
to the mixture, and this added to the sponge when sponge 
is ready, as described in recipes. 

4. Sweet dough must always be luke-warm and kept 
in a warm place (not hot) for if allowed to chill it will rise 
very slowly. 

5. If oven should not be ready for the sweet dough 
at the calculated time, the dough can be kept back by lay- 
ing together before reaching full proof. It may be laid 
together frequently in this way, thus gaining considerable 
time. 

6. First-class material should be used, as it greatly 
affects the flavor of the goods. 

7. Lemon flavor is the best for yeast-raised cakes. 

8. Set sponge medium soft, using about 2}^ pounds of 
flour to 1 quart of liquid. 

9. Sponge is ready when it "breaks." Do not wait 
for it to fall, as sponges must be taken younger for sweet 
doughs. 



88 



10. Always make sweet dough as soft as can be 
handled; it makes the cake richer and shorter than if made 
of a stiff dough. 

11. When butter is used and the same is very salty, 
the amount of salt called for in the reciepe should be reduced 
accordingly. 

12. P'ruit should always be thoroughly cleaned and 
the raisins seeded before using; if not it will discolor the 
dough, and, after cakes are baked, they will look soiled and 
unappetizing. 

All sweet doughs should be made in accordance with 
the following directions: 

Dissolve the yeast in the liquid and set a medium sponge. 

The sponge should be ready within from 13^ to 2 hours, 
or until it begins to break. In the meantime rub the butter, 
lard and sugar into a creamy consistency, adding the eggs 
gradually, one by one; then add the flavor and salt, which 
has been previously dissolved in very little water. Add 
this mixture to the sponge and beat together thoroughly for 
several minutes. Then add the necessary flour, making 
dough of the consistency described in the recipe for the 
kind desired. Let rest 1^ to 2 hours, until very light, and 
it is ready if it goes down when the hand is thrust into it. 
If raisins or other fruit are used the same should be dusted 
with the flour before added to the dough. 

Always cover the dough well and keep out of draft, to 
prevent it from getting chilled. It is well to beat the eggs 
a little before adding to the mixture. 



89 



SWEET DOUGH No. 1. 

Ingredients used: 

4 quarts milk. 

2 quarts water, 
12 ounces butter, 

6 ounces Fleischmann's Yeast. 
12 ounces lard. 

2 pounds sugar. 

6 to 8 eggs, 

2 ounces salt. 
The grating of a lemon. 
Flour. 

Set the sponge with 2 quarts of water and 2 quarts of 
the milk, together with yeast and necessary flour to make a 
medium stiff sponge. Allow to rest until the sponge breaks. 

Then add the remaining 2 quarts of milk, break sponge 
down fine; then add the rest of the ingredients and make 
medium stiff dough. Allow dough to rise to full proof, 
knock down and lay together well, allow to rest for Yl hour 
more, or until nearly full proof again. It is then ready to 
be worked up. 

SWEET DOUGH No. 2. 

Ingredients used: 

2 quarts milk, 

3 ounces Fleischmann's Yeast. 
2-3 ounce salt (2 level teaspoons,) 

7 ounces butter (better all butter instead of lard.) 
7 ounces lard, 
12 ounces sugar. 
1 pint egg yolks. 

Lemon flavor (grating of 1 lemon is best.) 
Flour. 



90 



Proceed the same as for Sweet Dough No. 1, but great 
care must be taken not to allow the ingredients to griddle 
while creaming, especially when this dough is used for soft 
doughs. 

PLAIN BUNS. 

Take Sweet Dough No. 1, roll into small round pieces 
and place on well-greased baking sheet, so that they will 
nearly touch each other. Give full proof and bake in 
medium-hot oven and brush over with a solution of sugar 
water when removed from the oven. 

TEA RUSKS. 

The same as Plain Buns; but place the pieces very close 
together on the baking sheet. 

CURRANT BUNS. 

The same as Plain Buns, but add cleansed currants to 
the dough before rolling of buns. 

HOT CROSS BUNS. 

Use either Sweet Dough No. 1 or No. 2, and roll into 
small rolls, set into dusted-proof boxes, allow to rest for 
fifteen minutes, then press down crosswise with a rolling 
pin, same as used for plain rolls. Place on baking sheets 
the same as for buns and allow to get nearly full proof. 
Bake in medium-hot oven. Brush over with sugar water 
as removed from the oven. When cool sprinkle with pow- 
dered sugar. 

PLAIN ZWIEBACK. 

Take Sweet Dough No. 1 and roll into small finger rolls. 
Set very close together in well-greased baking sheets, al- 
low to prove two-thirds over original size; then bake in 



91 



medium-hot oven. When cold, cut into slices about one- 
fourth of an inch thick. Lay the slices close together on a 
baking sheet and toast them in a slow heat to a light color. 
The slicing and toasting is best done after the rolls are one 
day old. 

GERMAN ZWIEBACK. 

Take Sweet Dough No. 2 and weigh off into three- 
pound pieces, mould round and allow to rest for ten minutes, 
then form into loaves 18 inches long, allow to rest until 
double original size, then bake lightly in medium-hot oven. 
After baking allow to rest for 24 hours, then cut into slices 
one-third inch thick and proceed the same as for plain 
Zwieback. 

FROSTED ZWIEBACK. 

Frost Zwieback with fondant, adding to the latter either 
lemon or vanilla flavor. 



ZWIEBACK FOR INFANTS. 

Ingredients used: 
l/€ pounds flour. 
1 ounce Fleischmann's Yeast. 
1 pint milk. 
3 ounces butter. 
1 ounce sugar. 
A pinch of salt. 
A little anis. 

Set a soft sponge with the milk, yeast and sufficient of 
the flour. Allow to rest until it begins to break; then add 
the rest of the ingredients and mix dough. Make immedi- 
ately into a long loaf; allow to rise until double original size 



92 



and bjike. After baking allow to rest 24 hours, then cut 
into slices the same as for plain Zwieback, sprinkle with 
sugar, mix with a little cinnamon and toast to a light brown 
color. 

CINNAMON CAKE. 

Use either Sweet Dough No. 1 or No. 2, Keep the 
dough as soft as can be handled. They can either be made 
up in 2-oz. cakes or large 1-lb. cakes. 

For 2-oz, cakes roll into round balls, allow to rise 20 
minutes, then flatten with palm of hand, brush over with 
melted butter, prick with fork and sprinkle with sugar and 
cinnamon. For 1-lb. cake weigh off into 18-oz. pieces, roll 
into round balls, allow to rest for 20 minutes, roll out into 
squares 9x7 inches, place on baking sheets, brush over with 
melted butter, prick well with fork and bestrew with a 
mixture of granulated sugar and cinnamon. 

The proper proportion for this mixture of sugar is 1 oz. 
cinnamon to 1 lb. of sugar. 

Allow to rise until very light, then bake in moderately 
brisk oven. 



STREUHSEL CAKE. 

Proceed the same as for cinnamon cake, except bestrew 
top with the following Streuhsel, instead of the mixture of 
sugar and cinnamon. 

Streuhsel is prepared in the following manner: 

Sift 1 lb. of flour with Y2 lb. sugar and Yl oz. cinnamon; 
mix thoroughly; then add 4 oz. hot butter. Work the whole 
into crumbs. It is then ready to be sprinkled on the top of 
the cakes. A few chopped almonds can be added for either 
Cinnamon or Streuhsel Cake. 



93 



CINNAMON BUNS. 

Use either Sweet Dough No. 1 or No. 2. 

Roll out into a square sheet about }/i inch thick, 18 inches 
wide and any length according to quantity desired. Brush 
over with melted butter and bestrew with sugar and cleansed 
currants and a little cinnamon. 

Make this sheet of dough into a roll, commencing on 
the upper edge; then, with a sharp knife, cut into slices Yi 
inch thick. 

Lay them on well-greased baking sheets which have 
first been strewn with sugar; let rise until double in size. 
(When placing on baking sheets place close together with 
cut side up and down.) 

Then bake in a brisk oven; move baking sheets occa- 
sionally while in the oven, to assure being baked well on the 
bottom. 

Brush over quickly with sugar water as removed from 
oven and turn out of pans immediately to prevent them 
from sticking to the pan. 

DOUGHNUTS. 

Use either Sweet Dough No. 1 or No. 2. 

Keep dough as soft as can be handled; roll out into 
sheets of 3^ inch thickness, cut out with doughnut cutter or 
form in twists; lay on cloth-covered or dusted boards and 
let rise until double original size; then fry in hot-clarified 
lard, turning them constantly to assure uniform color. 

BERLIN PAN-CAKES. 

Use either Sweet Dough No. 1 or No. 2, keeping same 
very soft, the same as for doughnuts. 



94 



Roll up into round balls, allow to rise 15 minutes, then 
flatten them a little with the palm of the hand; place a little 
fruit jelly or jam in the middle and pinch the edges together 
to enclose the fruit, again forming a ball; lay them on 
floured cloth smooth side up, cover and let rise until nearly 
double size, and fry same in hot lard, same as doughnuts, 
turning them constantly. 



COFFEE RINGS. 

Use either Sweet Dough No. 1 or No. 2. 

Make dough of medium firmness. For 1-lb. coffee rings 
scale off dough in 18-oz. pieces, break into three parts and 
roll into balls, and let rise 15 minutes; then roll into long 
strips of equal length and form into a braid, bringing the 
two ends carefully together, forming a ring; lay on slightly 
greased baking sheets, allow to rise fully double original 
size, brush over with egg wash, bestrew with chopped al- 
monds and granulated sugar. The granulated sugar may 
be omitted, and the ring frosted after baking. 



SAXON CAKES. 

Use either Sweet Dough No. 1 or No. 2. 

Make dough firm, adding 1 lb. raisins, 1 lb. currants and 
Yz lb. finely chopped citron. Scale off in 18-oz. pieces, 
mould into round loaves, let rise 15 minutes, press down in 
the center, over half through, with a rolling pin, giving the 
pan a half turn; then lap one part over the other, pressing 
together slightly with palm of hand. Place on slightly- 
greased baking sheets laying in crescent shapes, with the 
split on the outside. Set in proof box and let rise to double 
original size; brush over with melted butter and bake in 
moderately quick oven, when done brush over with lemon 
frosting or, if preferred, with melted butter, and bestrew 
with a mixture of sugar and cinnamon. 



95 



YEAST-RAISED PASTRY. 

Use Sweet Dough No. 2, of medium stiffness. 

Take 6 lbs. of sweet dough; let dough be of medium 
firmness. Roll out into a square 12x18 inches and set in a 
cool place 3^ hour. 

Then roll out, same as for Puff Paste, placing the butter 
upon it in little lumps, distributed all over the surface of 
the dough. Fold up the edges of the dough to enclose the 
butter, handling the same as in making Puff Paste. Roll 
out to Y2 inch thickness, fold in three and roll out again; set 
in a cool place to rest for Yi hour. Then repeat the rolling, 
giving it two more turns; let rise again 15 minutes, and it 
will be ready for use. 



SNAILS. 

Use either Sweet Dough No. 1 or No. 2 or best Yeast- 
Raised Pastry. 

Roll out into a square sheet, same as for cinnamon buns, 
brush over with lard or butter, bestrew with sugar and cur- 
rants, then make into a roll, beginning at the upper edge. 
Cut off in pieces of 1 to 13^ inches thick, according to size 
desired; place on well-greased baking sheets with the palm 
of the hand and allow to rise; when double in size brush 
over with egg wash, then let rise again for 20 minutes and 
bake in brisk oven. While still hot, wash either with vanilla 
or lemon icing, or allow to cool and dust with powdered 
sugar. 

APPLE CAKE. 

Use either Sweet Dough No. 1 or No. 2, but better 
Yeast-Raised Pastry. Line a baking sheet with the dough 
1-8 inch thick, prick well with a fork all over, allow the 



96 



dough to rise 15 minutes, then lay on it apples previously 
peeled, cored and cut in eighths, arranging the same in rows. 
Bestrew with currants and sugar mixed with a little cin- 
namon; allow to rise 20 minutes more; then bake in medium- 
hot oven until apples become tender. Instead of sugar and 
cinnamon, a custard may be poured on before baking, con- 
sisting of 3 oz. sugar, 1 pint milk and 2 eggs. Beat this 
custard thoroughly before pouring on cake. If hard apples 
are used, bake apple cake for 15 minutes; then withdraw 
from oven and pour on custard and finish baking. 

FRUIT CAKE. 

Use either cherries, pears, grapes or any other fruit de- 
sired, and proceed as for apple cake. Sour fruits need more 
sugar. Always pour on custard last. 

The cakes can also be finished without custard, and then 
almonds, currants, orange and citron peel, etc., with sugar 
strewn on top of cake before baking. 

SPECKKUCHEN No. 1. 

Take either Sweet Dough No. 1 or No. 2, or better 
Yeast-Raised Pastry. 

Line a baking sheet the same as for apple cake. Wisk 
eggs thoroughly (6 to 8 eggs for a medium-size cake) and 
pour into the lined baking sheet. Then divide the speck 
previously cut into small squares over the surface of the 
cake, sprinkle with a little salt and bake in hot oven. 

SPECKKUCHEN No. 2. 

Line a baking sheet very thin with fermented rye dough. 
Scald one cup of farina with sufficient boiling milk into a 
thick paste and allow to cool; then mix with six yolks, a 
little salt, a few caraway seeds and one fair-sized smothered 



97 



onion. Then beat the white of eggs to a froth and add to 
this mixture; cover the lined baking sheet with this, wash 
over with egg wash and then sprinkle with little squares of 
speck. 

ONION CAKE. 

Line baking sheet with Yeast-Raised Pastry, same as for 
apple cake. Smother fine-cut onions in hot lard; strain off 
superfluous lard and allow to cool; then add several eggs 
according to size of cake, a few caraway seeds, very little 
sugar and a little salt, place this mixture on a lined baking 
sheet and bake in a brisk oven. This cake is recommended 
to be served hot. 

CHEESE CAKE. 

Line baking sheet the same as for apple cake and fill 
with the following mixture: 
Ingredients used: 
1 lb. green cheese. 

5 eggs. 

6 oz. sugar. 
1 qt. milk. 

Little vanilla flavor. 

Rub the cheese and yolks of eggs together until smooth, 
dissolve sugar in milk, beat the white of eggs to a froth and 
add to the cheese and yolks, then add the milk and sugar. 

Fill baking sheet and sprinkle with a little cinnamon. 
Bake slowly and change place in oven to secure well-baked 
bottom. 

CHEESE CAKE. 

Same as preceding, but fill with the following: 
13^ lbs. green cheese cream, together with 5 oz. sugar 
and 2 oz. flour. Add 3 eggs, 1 oz. chopped citron, 2 oz. cur- 
rants and 2 oz. melted butter. 



98 



SPANISH SNAILS (Pan de Gloria). 

Ingredients used: 
1 pt. water, 
12 eggs. 

3 lbs. sugar. 

4 oz. Fleischmann's Yeast. 
1-3 oz. salt. 

Sponge. 

Dissolve the yeast and 1^ lbs. of the sugar in the water; 
then add the eggs; beat the whole until thoroughly mixed; 
then add sufficient flour to make a soft sponge. Allow this 
sponge to rise for three hours. The average temperature 
should be 80 degrees F. 

Dough. 

Add the remaining \}/2 lbs. sugar, together with the salt 
(and 6 oz. of melted butter must be dissolved previously in 
as little water as possible.) Mix this well with sponge; then 
make a dough of the same stiffness as for rolls. 

Allow to rest for 45 minutes; then break off into 3-oz. 
pieces, roll into round balls and allow to rest for 20 minutes. 
Then proceed the same as for crescent rolls, only roll them 
on a well-greased bench, instead of in flour, as done for 
crescent rolls. When the rolls are made lay them in snail 
form on well-greased pans. Allow to rest for 12 hours; then 
bake in brisk oven. 

The dough for these rolls can be made the day previous 
to baking, so that if the rolls are placed on pans at 5 P. M. 
one day, they are ready to be baked off at 5 A. M. the fol- 
lowing day. When cool sprinkle them with XXXX sugar. 



99 

KUGELHUPF. 

Ingredients used: 

1 lb. flour. 

2 oz. Fleischmann's Yeast. 
7 oz. butter. 

4 oz. sugar. 

7 eggs. 

y^ teaspoon salt. 

3 oz. almonds. 
Y2 lb. raisins. 
}/l lb. currants. 

3^ lb. chopped citron. 
1}/^ cups milk (2-3 pint). 
Lemon flavor. 

Set sponge with milk, which latter must be luke-warm, 
keeping the sponge rather soft, and allow to rest until it 
breaks. 

The yeast is dissolved in the milk before adding the 
flour. 

Meanwhile work the sugar and butter into a creamy con- 
sistency; when light add the yolks one by one. Mix the 
remaining flour with the fruit. 

When sponge is ready add the mixture of the sugar, 
butter and yolks, mix very lightly, then add the whites of 
eggs previously beaten into a froth. Mix together half, then 
add fruit with flour and mix until smooth. 

This should not be worked or beaten much, but the 
mixture should be lifted into each other, and as soon as 
smooth fill into kugelhupf moulds previously greased and 
dusted; the bottom of the moulds bestrewn with blanched 
and fine-sliced almonds. 

Allow to rest until 2-3 over original size; then bake in 
moderate oven. When done turn out of moulds, allow to 
cool, then dust with powdered sugar or frost with white 
fondant flavored with lemon or vanilla. 



100 



BABAS. 

The same as for kugelhupf, but use 1 lb. raisins, 1 lb. 
currants, Yi lb. citron, 2 oz. orange peel and 4 ounces of 
chopped almonds. Give this cake very little proof and 
bake in very cool oven. 

When baked allow to cool, then saturate with brandy 
syrup. This syrup is made in the following manner. 

Boil 1 pt. water with 1 lb. sugar, skim off after boiling, 
then allow to cool to blood-heat, add 1 pt. of Jamaica rum 
or brandy and the juice of 2 lemons. 

SAVARIN. 

Ingredients used: 

1 gill milk. 
19 oz. flour. 

2 oz. Fleischmann's Yeast. 
15 oz. butter. 

2 oz. sugar. 

A pinch of salt. 

8 eggs. 

The grating of 1 lemon. 

1 oz. chopped citron. 

2 oz. raisins. 

A pinch of mace. 

Set sponge with yeast, milk and 5 ounces of the flour 
and allow to rest for 45 minutes. In the meantime rub the 
butter and sugar into a creamy consistency, adding the eggs 
one by one; mix the fruit with the remaining flour. When 
sponge is light add same to the mixture of sugar and butter 
and, last, the fruit together with the remaining flour; fill 
into Savarin moulds, allow to rise and bake in a moderate 
oven. After baking allow to cool, then saturate with 
brandy syrup, the same as for Babas. 



101 
BRIOCHES. 

Ingredients used: 

3 lbs. flour. 

3 oz. Fleischmann's Yeast. 

2 lbs. butter. 
18 eggs. 

3 oz. sugar. 

1 gill brandy. 

\'2 teaspoonful salt. 

Dissolve the yeast in }/2 pint luke-warm milk, and with 
it make a medium-firm sponge. Cover with a cloth and let 
rise in a warm place. Work the other ingredients into a 
creamy consistency, beating in the eggs gradually. When 
sponge is ready put same into this mixture and, with a 
wooden spoon, mix or rather cut in the butter, eggs, etc., 
adding the rest of the flour; cover with a cloth and let rise 
until double original size (time 4 hours). Then work 
together and let rise anew; work together again and place 
on ice until it hardens. Then work into round balls, place 
on baking sheets and allow to rise about 1-3 above original 
size; brush over with egg, cut on top crosswise with pair of 
scissors, forming a cross cut, and bake in brisk oven. 

These can also be made into different forms, such as 
twists, etc., or the round balls may be pressed with the palm 
of the hand, making a deep hole in the middle with finger; 
place a round piece of dough on top of the hole, forming a 
lid. They may also be baked in small or large Savarin 
moulds; if baked in large moulds the mould must have the 
tube in the center, otherwise the cake will not bake through. 



102 



GERMAN RING TWIST. 

Ingredients used: 
20 oz. flour. 
2 oz. Fleischmann's Yeast. 
5 oz. butter. 
1 oz. sugar. 
Grating of 1 lemon. 
A pinch of salt. 
^ pint milk. 

Set sponge with all of the milk, yeast and sufficient 
flour. Allow to rest until it breaks. Then add the rest of 
ingredients and mix dough thoroughly. Allow dough to 
rest for one hour; then break into three equal parts, mould 
into round balls, allow to rest until nearly double in size, 
then roll out in three equal lengths, form twist and lay in 
ring shape on baking sheet, bringing ends carefully together; 
allow to rise until double in size, then brush over with the 
solution of egg water, sprinkle with granulated sugar and 
coarsely chopped almonds and bake in a brisk oven. 

HAZELNUT RINGS. 

Use Yeast-Raised Pastry {1^ lbs.) Roll out into a 
sheet 9 inches wide and 18 inches long, fill with the hazelnut 
paste, sprinkle with 2 ounces of sugar and 2 ounces of 
chopped orange peel and make into a roll, commencing on 
the upper end; lay in ring shape on baking sheet, bringing 
the ends carefully together; allow to rise until nearly double 
original size; brush over with a strong solution of egg wash 
and bake in medium-hot oven. After baking, frost with 
fondant flavored with vanilla. 

The hazelnut filling is made in the following manner: 

Rub 3 oz. of hazelnuts fine with sufficient cream to form 
a thick paste, then add 2 oz. of sugar, 2 oz. of finely chopped 
orange peel, together with a little vanilla. 



103 



PLUNDER PRETZELS. 

Roll Yeast-Raised Pastry into a sheet about J^s inch 
thick, brush over with melted butter, then sprinkle with 
sugar previously mixed with a little cinnamon, fold into 
three from the upper and lower end, roll out to width of 
about 12 inches, then cut into two strips about Yi ii^ch wide; 
give these strips a few twists, then lay in pretzel form on 
well-greased baking sheets; allow to prove until half over 
their original size, then brush over with a strong solution 
of egg water; then bake in moderate oven. After cooling, 
frost with fondant flavored with lemon or vanilla. 



VANILLA CRESCENT. 

Take Yeast-Raised Pastry, roll out into a sheet 3^ inch 
thick, cut into triangular pieces, brush over with butter, 
sprinkle with vanilla sugar, and roll up into crescents, so that 
the outer end is in the middle of the length and on the out- 
side of the roll. Lay in crescent shape on well-greased 
baking sheets; allow to rise until double original size, brush 
over with egg wash and bake in moderately hot oven. After 
baking, frost with fondant flavored with vanilla. 

BUTTER BREAD. 

Ingredients used: 
7 oz. butter. 
2 oz. sugar. 
11 eggs. 
Y2 pt. milk. 

1 lb. flour. 

2 oz. Fleischmann's Yeast. 
Yi teaspoonful salt. 

The grating of 1 lemon. 



104 



Cream the butter thoroughly, adding the eggs and flour 
alternately; that is, add one egg to butter and cream till 
smooth, then one tablespoonful of flour, and continue to 
cream till light again, continuing in this manner until all the 
eggs and flour are worked in. If the mixture becomes too 
stiff for creaming, very little of the milk can be added for 
creaming, but not until at least 5 eggs and respectively 5 
tablespoonfuls of flour are worked in the mixture. When 
all the eggs and flour are mixed with the butter dissolve the 
yeast, sugar and salt in the remaining milk and add to the 
mixture little by little, rubbing constantly. The dough 
should be soft enough to run, so that when lifted into Turk- 
head moulds, previously well-greased and dusted, it will run 
smooth ; allow to rest from 2 to 3 hours in a warm place and 
bake in a cool oven. They have to rise about three hours. 
The right proof is when they are about 2-3 over their 
original size. 

ULMER BREADS. 

Ingredients used: 
15 oz. flour. 

2 oz. Fleischmann's Yeast. 
3/^ pint milk. 

3 oz. butter. 

3 oz. sugar. 

4 eggs. 

Yi gill brandy. 

1 teaspoonful anis. 
The grating of 1 lemon. 

2 oz. chopped orange peel. 
1 pinch of salt. 



105 



Set sponge with milk and yeast with sufficient flour; 
allow to rest until it breaks (time about 45 minutes). 
Cream the sugar and butter together, adding the eggs one 
by one; then add the brandy and add this mixture to the 
sponge; mix smooth. Then add the remaining flour 
together with the fruit. Mould and allow to rest until 
double original size; then make up into breads, the same as 
home-made bread; place on greased baking sheets and allow 
to rise until double original size; then brush over with egg 
water and bake in medium-hot oven. They can also be 
baked in single-loaf baking tins. 

STOLLEN. 

Ingredients used: 
37 oz. flour. 

3 oz. sugar. 
10 oz. butter. 

4 eggs. 

1}/^ pts. milk. 

2 oz. Fleischmann's Yeast. 

}/2 teaspoonful salt. 

5 oz. raisins. 
Grating of 1 lemon. 

2 oz. chopped almonds. 
1 oz. chopped citron. 
A pinch of cinnamon. 

Set sponge with milk, yeast and sufficient flour; allow 
to rest until it breaks; in the meanwhile cream butter, sugar 
and eggs to a creamy consistency. Add this to the sponge 
and mix until smooth. Mix the fruit with the remaining 
flour, together with the cinnamon, and finish dough. Allow 
to rest for one hour; mould into round pieces; allow to rest 
again until they have proof enough to be made up in same 



106 



shape as Vienna loaves. Lay on boards covered with cloths, 
same as Vienna loaves, and let rise until nearly double in 
size; then press down with rolling pin, the same as for 
turn-over rolls, and lift the two parts over each other, press- 
ing them slightly together. Lay in crescent shape on well- 
greased baking sheets; allow to rest 20 minutes more; then 
bake in brisk oven. When cool, frost with vanilla icing or 
fondant. 

SAXON CAKE. 

Use Sweet Dough No. 2, adding 1 lb. raisins, 1 lb. cur- 
rants, and Yi lb. finely chopped citron; scale off in 18-oz. 
pieces, mould into round balls, and proceed the same as for 
Stollen. 



M 



107 



MUFFINS, GEMS, GRIDDLE CAKES, ETC 



BAKED APPLE DUMPLINGS. 

Take Yeast-Raised Pastry, roll out into squares large 
enough to lap over the apples; peel apples and core them, 
leaving the apples whole; place the apples in the center of 
the square pieces of dough, which must be previously 
brushed over with water; fill the hole in center of apple 
with a mixture of sugar, a little cinnamon and a few cur- 
rants; then lap the dough over the apples from all sides, 
and set them, smooth side up, on well-greased baking sheets; 
prick with fork around the side of the apple to permit the 
steam to draw off while baking; also make a hole on top 
reaching down to the hole in the apple; allow to rest for 20 
minutes, then brush over with egg water and bake in mod- 
erate oven. When done withdraw from oven, sprinkle with 
a mixture of sugar and cinnamon, then re-enter in oven for 
2 minutes. 



WAFFLES No. 1. 

Ingredients used: 
1 quart milk. 

1 ounce Fleischmann's Yeast. 

2 pounds flour. 
4 eggs. 

3 ounces sugar. 

1 teaspoonful salt. 

A little grated nutmeg. 



108 



Set sponge with milk, which should be luke-warm, and 
allow to rest until it drops back and commences to rise 
again; then add the rest of the ingredients and beat until 
smooth. If the dough is too stiff, add a litle more milk, if 
too soft, more flour. A good deal depends in this respect 
upon the strength of the flour used. Allow dough to rest 
15 minutes more, then bake in hot waffle irons. 

WAFFLES No. 2. 

Ingredients used: 

4 pounds flour. 

2 ounces Fleischmann's Yeast. 
15 eggs. 
12 ounces sugar. 

1 pound butter. 

1 teaspoonful salt. 

A little mace. 

13^ quarts milk. 

Set sponge with milk, which should be luke-warm, yeast 
and sufficient of the flour, allow to rest until it has its first 
drop, then add the yolks together with the sugar and butter 
which has been previously creamed. Next, add one-half 
cup milk in which dissolve the salt, beat again until smooth, 
then add the whites of eggs previously beaten into a froth. 
If the mixture is too stiff add a little more milk before add- 
ing the white of the egg. Mix batter a little stiffer than for 
wheat cakes, allow to rest for 15 minutes and it is then 
ready. 



109 
WAFFLES No. 3. 

Ingredients used: 

15 ounces butter. 
12 eggs. 

5 ounces sugar. 

2 ounces Fleischmann's Yeast. 

Y2 teaspoonful salt. 

Lemon or nutmeg. 

3/2 pint milk. 
19 ounces flour. 

Cream the butter by adding 1 egg, next 1 tablespoonful 
of flour, and so on until all the eggs are added to the butter. 
In the meantime dissolve the yeast, sugar and salt in the 
milk, which should be luke-warm; next add this to the 
creamed butter, mix smooth and, last, add the remaining 
flour. Place one big spoonful of this mixture in the middle 
of the hot waffle iron previously greased, then close the 
iron and bake them, during which process the waffle iron 
must be frequently turned until the waffles have a nice 
brown color. After waffles are cooled sprinkle with 
powdered sugar mixed with cinnamon. 



WHEAT GEMS. 



Ingredients used: 

\\/i pounds sugar. 
\\i pounds lard or butter. 
12 eggs. 
2 quarts milk, 

2 ounces Fleischmann's Yeast. 
3^ ounce salt. 
4 pounds flour. 



110 



Set sponge with milk, which should be luke-warm, yeast 
and all of the flour. Allow to rise until it breaks, time 45 
minutes to 1 hour. In the meantime, cream the sugar and 
shortening, adding the eggs one by one. When sponge is 
ready, combine the two mixtures and beat thoroughly. 
Fill into well-greased gem tins, allow to rest for 15 minutes, 
then bake in a hot oven. 



This will make 175 fair-sized gems. 



WHEAT MUFFINS. 



The same as for wheat gems, using only one-half the 
sugar, 4 ounces more shortening than used for wheat gems. 



GRAHAM GEMS. 

Ingredients used: 

4 ounces sugar. 

1 pint molasses. 

1}4 pints lard or butter. 
12 eggs. 
IH quarts milk. 

2 ounces Fleischmann's Yeast. 
}/2 ounce salt. 

2 pounds white flour. 
2 pounds graham flour. 

Set sponge, using all the milk and flour; allow to rest 
until it breaks. Cream the lard and sugar, then add the 
eggs one by one, and last, the molasses; add this, together 
with salt, to the sponge. Then proceed the same as for 
wheat gems. 



Ill 



GRAHAM MUFFINS. 

Ingredients used: 

3/2 pint molasses. 

2 ounces sugar. 

1% pounds lard or butter. 
12 eggs. 

2 quarts milk. 

2 ounces Fleischmann's Yeast. 

3/2 ounce salt. 

2 pounds graham flour. 

23^ pounds white flour. 
Proceed exactly the same as for Graham Gems. 
This will make 175 medium-size mufiins. 



RICE MUFFINS. 

The same as wheat muflins, except add 1 pound rice, 
which has been previously boiled and drained. Add two 
whole eggs to rice, and rub smooth before adding the mix- 
ture; then beat whole until smooth. 

This mixture will make 200 medium-size muffins. 



GINGER GEMS. 

Same as graham gems, but omit the graham flour and 
use in all 4 lbs. white flour and add 1 oz. finely -ground ginger 
and Y2 oz. ground cinnamon to mixture. 



CHOCOLATE GEMS. 

The same as wheat gems, but use only 1 lb. of shorten- 
ing instead of 134 lbs., as in wheat gems, and add 4 oz. of 
melted bitter chocolate to the sugar and shortening before 
creaming. Add a little vanilla flavor. 



112 

CORN MUFFINS. 

Ingredients used: 

1 quart milk. 

2 lbs. white flour. 

1 lb. corn meal. 

2 oz. Fleisclimann's Yeast. 

3 oz. sugar. 
9 oz. butter. 
6 eggs. 

}/2 oz. salt. 

A little nutmeg. 

Set sponge, using all the milk, yeast, white flour and 
cornmeal. Sponge should be luke-warm. Allow to rest un- 
til it breaks. Time, \\^ hours. Cream sugar and butter, 
add the grated nutmeg and salt, and last, the eggs one by 
one, creaming in between. Add this mixture to sponge 
when ready, and beat whole thoroughly until smooth. 

Fill in mufiin rings, allow to rise for 15 minutes then, 
bake in a hot oven. 



CORN GEMS. 

Ingredients used: 

1 quart milk. 

2 lbs. white flour. 

1 lb. corn meal. 

2 oz, Fleischmann's Yeast. 
9 oz. sugar. 

6 oz. butter. 

6 eggs. 

Y2 oz. salt. 

Yi grated nutmeg. 

Proceed the same as for corn muffins. 



113 



CORN BREAD. 



Use either corn muffin or corn gem mixture, and put 
into greased baking sheets or pie-plates, about ^ of an inch 
thick; allow to rise for 15 minutes, then bake in hot oven. 



EGG MUFFINS. 

Ingredients used: 
3 lbs. white flour. 
12 oz. sugar. 

1 lb. butter. 
3^ oz. salt. 
6 eggs. 

6 yolks. 

A pinch of mace. 

2 oz. Fleischmann's Yeast. 

1 quart milk. 

Mix and bake the same as described for wheat muffins. 

POP-OVER MUFFINS. 

Ingredients used: 

2 quarts milk. 
2)4 lbs. flour. 

12 eggs. 

1 oz. salt. 

2 oz. Fleischmann's Yeast. 

Set sponge with milk, flour and yeast, which should be 
luke-warm. Allow to rest for 45 minutes; then add the eggs 
and salt, and beat the whole for 10 minutes. Fill into 
greased muffin rings, filling the latter 34 full, and bake in 
hot oven. 



114 



POTATO BISCUIT. 

Ingredients used: 

8 boiled potatoes of medium size, mashed very fine. 
4 oz. melted butter, 

1 pint milk. 

2 oz. Fleischmann's Yeast. 
2 oz. sugar. 

Flour to make soft batter. 
2 eggs. 

Stir all the above ingredients together, except the butter 
and eggs, and let rise until it breaks. Then add the butter 
previously melted and the eggs. Beat well, add a little more 
flour, and bake in muffin rings. 

After filling in rings, which latter should be filled half 
full, allow to rest for 30 minutes before baking. 

MOTHER MUFFINS. 

Very quickly made. 
Ingredients used: 

1 pint milk. 

1 oz. melted butter. 

1 yeast cake, Fleischmann's. 

1 egg. 

1 teaspoon salt. 
Flour. 

2 tablespoons sugar. 

Make sponge with the milk (luke-warm), yeast and 
sugar, and sufficient flour to make very soft batter. Allow 
to rest 20 to 30 minutes; then add all the other ingredients, 
mix until smooth, and add sufficient flour to make a regular 
muffin batter. Beat for two minutes and bake in hot oven. 



115 



MOTHER GRAHAM MUFFINS. 

They are made the same as mother muffins, only omit 
the sugar, adding 3^2 cup molasses to the sponge instead, and 
use half and half white and graham flour. 

HOMINY MUFFINS. 

Exactly the same as rice muffins, except substitute 
hominy for rice. 

BUCKWHEAT CAKES. 

Ingredients used: 

1 quart buckwheat flour. 
1 oz. Fleischmann's Yeast. 
1 teaspoon salt. 
3^ cup Indian meal. 
Yi cup molasses. 
Add to the above sufficient luke-warm water to make a 
regular batter, beat well and allow to rest for two hours. 

If set over night, use only Yi cake compressed yeast and 
add 3^ teaspoon soda in the morning, previously dissolved 
in a tablespoonful of water. 

It is then ready for the griddle. 

FLANNEL CAKES. 

Ingredients used: 
1 quart milk. 
1 Fleischmann's Yeast cake. 

1 oz. butter, melted. 

2 eggs. 

1 teaspoon salt. 

Set sponge with half of milk and yeast. Allow to rest 
until it drops back; then add the other ingredients and beat 
thoroughly. Allow to rest for half an hour more. It is 
then ready. Time in all, two hours. 

If sponge is set over night, use ^^ of the milk and add 
the salt to the sponge, using only Y2 yeast cake. 



116 



Add the other half of yeast cake in the morning, with 
rest of milk and other ingredients; allow to rest for 20 
minutes. It is then ready for the griddle. 

BATTER CAKES. 

Ingredients used: 

2 cups white Indian meal. 

2 cups white flour. 

1 oz. butter. 

1 quart milk. 

1 Fleischmann's Yeast cake. 

1 teaspoon salt. 

Set batter over night, using all ingredients except the 
butter; in the morning add 3^ teaspoon soda dissolved in a 
little water, then the melted butter; beat thoroughly, let rise 
for 15 minutes. The mixture is then ready for the griddle. 



MISCELLANEOUS— ICING FOR 
SWEET CAKES. 



PLAIN ICING. 

For each pint of water, use whites of two eggs, beaten 
to a stiff froth. Add all the sugar possible; then, little by 
little, add the boiling water. After the addition of the water 
again add sufficient XXXX sugar to make frosting of the 
thickness desired. 

Flavor either with extract of fruit, lemon or vanilla, or 
with liquors such as Maraschino, Kirschwasser, rum, brandy, 
etc. 



117 



It may be colored any shade desired. 
To obtain a glossy surface, place cakes, after icing, for 
five seconds inside of oven door. 

FONDANT (Boiled Icing). 

Take granulated sugar, add enough water and a little 
cream of tartar previously dissolved in a little water. (For 
20 lbs. sugar, use 1 oz. cream of tartar). Boil the sugar for 
five minutes, then skim until clean, washing the side of the 
pan with cold water to cleanse from the impurity settling on 
pan during boiling. 

Boil to the soft ball, then remove and pour onto a slab 
previously sprinkled with ice water. Let rest awhile, then 
work with spatula until it becomes white and creamy. 
Place in a jar, cover with a damp cloth, and set in a cool 
place. 

It can also be creamed in the pan in which it has been 
boiled. In this case, allow to cool down some, and then stir 
constantly until creamy and too thick to stir more. Then 
work with hands until smooth. 

When using, put as much as needed in a small pan, flavor, 
thin down over fire until luke-warm; if too stifl", add a little 
water. Never allow this icing to become hot over fire. 

CHOCOLATE ICING. 

Chocolate icing can be made to good advantage by add- 
ing a little melted chocolate to either fondant or plain 
icing, and add a little vanilla flavor. 

SUGAR BOILED TO SOFT BALL. 

Sugar is boiled to a soft ball, when the adhering sugar 
to a teaspoon dipped in ice water, then in boiling sugar and 
immediately again in ice water, will form a soft ball when 
worked between the thumb and finger. 



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